looking to buy a 2001 durango
i'm in Roselle.
not exactly sure what happened to the brakes, took the wheel off. forced the caliper to open, then pumped with pedal, did so 5 times. drove it for the next 3-4 hrs, no more issues. also discovered bolted on upper ball joints. both cv boots look great. brakes look fairly recent, rotor looked good and pads had a ton of meat left.
man i loved driving it.
got it filled up, the some wipers, topped off coolant and power steering fluid..
discovered a couple of issues, need to replace one headlight bulb.
the other is that the front hvac fan only works on the high speed setting, any ideas on the problem?
not exactly sure what happened to the brakes, took the wheel off. forced the caliper to open, then pumped with pedal, did so 5 times. drove it for the next 3-4 hrs, no more issues. also discovered bolted on upper ball joints. both cv boots look great. brakes look fairly recent, rotor looked good and pads had a ton of meat left.
man i loved driving it.
got it filled up, the some wipers, topped off coolant and power steering fluid..
discovered a couple of issues, need to replace one headlight bulb.
the other is that the front hvac fan only works on the high speed setting, any ideas on the problem?
Blower motor resistor is shot... easy fix just a little of a PITA to get to... they range from 17-25 bucks at autozone
Last edited by Old_School; Jun 21, 2012 at 10:19 AM.
THE ULTI-MOD
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 19,797
Likes: 36
From: Union NJ
the brakes is one of two issues, the metal rails that the pads slide on have a groove worn in them, when the pad pushes in past it the force of the turning wheel pushes it into a 'deeper' section, when you let go of the pedal it stays there engaged, this can be fixed easily with a grinder.
possibility 2 (and the most likely one in my experience) is that your rubber brake lines need to be replaced, they are aging/rotting and collapsing on the inside, when you push on the pedal there is enough pressure for fluid to flow TO the caliper, when you let go of it a little bit flows back, but most of the pressure stays on keeping the caliper engaged
been there fought this problem myself a couple years back.
possibility 2 (and the most likely one in my experience) is that your rubber brake lines need to be replaced, they are aging/rotting and collapsing on the inside, when you push on the pedal there is enough pressure for fluid to flow TO the caliper, when you let go of it a little bit flows back, but most of the pressure stays on keeping the caliper engaged
been there fought this problem myself a couple years back.
Registered User
Joined: Jun 2012
Posts: 6
Likes: 0
just got home with it. ended up winning the auction for $650.
driver side caliper was on fire, literally. waiting to cool off to take a look.
here are some pics upon arrival. need to top off some fluids, mainly antifreeze and power steering.
https://picasaweb.google.com/1119025...eat=directlink
driver side caliper was on fire, literally. waiting to cool off to take a look.
here are some pics upon arrival. need to top off some fluids, mainly antifreeze and power steering.
https://picasaweb.google.com/1119025...eat=directlink
the a/c still doesnt feel as cold as i think it should be. could i just do one of those quick recharge things?
also the a/c for the back runs off of the same system or a diff one?
THE ULTI-MOD
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 19,797
Likes: 36
From: Union NJ
one A/C system for the front and rear, with the age and neglect that you truck has probably seen (it was at auction most auction cars have been neglected IME) i would venture your A/C is low on freon, however the best way to have it recharged is at a shop bc they will monitor pressures while doing it to prevent over filling, this is hard for the DIY mechanic to do if you can do it then go for it.
one A/C system for the front and rear, with the age and neglect that you truck has probably seen (it was at auction most auction cars have been neglected IME) i would venture your A/C is low on freon, however the best way to have it recharged is at a shop bc they will monitor pressures while doing it to prevent over filling, this is hard for the DIY mechanic to do if you can do it then go for it.
i have freon gauges, and I'm familiar with A/c did many residential with my dad.
i would like to do it properly but i don't have a vacuum pump. and i'm trying to keep the costs down.
You can buy a a/c vacuum pump from harbor freight for under 25 bucks
Registered User
Joined: Jun 2012
Posts: 6
Likes: 0
OK so test drove it tonight. Drives really nice aside from some play on centre in the steering which will be addressed if I buy the truck.
Very clean inside and out. Minor rust on the outside at all four outer corners which looks standard for this age of truck based on where the water seems to run and collect. and one other spot on the passenger rear door front corner under the window trim.
It was pouring rain so that unfortunately affected the drive and what I could check out under the truck but all i in all seemed pretty solid. I will get the rust addressed right away if I buy it, I am guessing 7-900 to fix the rust in the corners properly without going crazy.
The price is 5000 out the door and I can probably get him to fix the steering for that price. I am going to look at kijiji and trader.ca to find comparisons as ammunition when talking price.
Very clean inside and out. Minor rust on the outside at all four outer corners which looks standard for this age of truck based on where the water seems to run and collect. and one other spot on the passenger rear door front corner under the window trim.
It was pouring rain so that unfortunately affected the drive and what I could check out under the truck but all i in all seemed pretty solid. I will get the rust addressed right away if I buy it, I am guessing 7-900 to fix the rust in the corners properly without going crazy.
The price is 5000 out the door and I can probably get him to fix the steering for that price. I am going to look at kijiji and trader.ca to find comparisons as ammunition when talking price.