1st Gen Durango 1998 - 2003 Durango's

looking to buy a 2001 durango

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Old Jun 27, 2012 | 01:48 PM
  #51  
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Yeah, you are missing the control arm bump stop...$15-$30 depending on where you look.

Looks good, but one small word of advice, and you might get detractors on here, I would spend the few extra bucks and buy shock boots. The shock itself would be ok without it, but I would get them to eliminate premature corrosion, or take a chance of getting dirt into the shock, they make them in all sorts of colors, and they aren't just for looks...
 
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Old Jun 27, 2012 | 01:59 PM
  #52  
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is this the bump stop?

http://www.autozone.com/autozone/par...3_172580_5285_

are boots one size fits all type of thing?
 
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Old Jun 27, 2012 | 02:57 PM
  #53  
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found the bump stops at amazon for 1/3 of price of autozone

Amazon Amazon
 
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Old Jun 27, 2012 | 03:00 PM
  #54  
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yea that looks like the right part, i paid $58 a set from the stealer a few years back when i had to do mine, noone else had them at that time
 
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Old Jun 28, 2012 | 01:41 PM
  #55  
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ordered the bumps from amazon

on the seafoam is this it?


also helped my boy yesterday towing his car, only local. less than 10 miles.


and i will be doing the rear shocks and spare winch today. will post pics later.
 
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Old Jun 28, 2012 | 03:02 PM
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We had to change the IAC motor on our 99, we used some similar spray cleaner, made by BG, did a good job, the key is to be thorough when spraying, get it in as many places as you can. I also would say this is more of an intermittent maintenance product, doesn't replace removing and thoroughly cleaning the whole TB with a toothbrush on both sides and in all the ports.
 
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Old Jun 30, 2012 | 06:04 PM
  #57  
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That Seafoam intake cleaner is good stuff, the seafoam you put in gas tank or oil has a twist off cap. Usually runs about $7.99..I also have used Marvins Mystery Oil, had a lifter tick on my wifes grand prix...put it in, ran it about 20 minutes, it's been quiet for over 1600 miles...
 
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Old Jul 2, 2012 | 09:52 PM
  #58  
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so we went away this weekend again back to PA and we took the D. before we left i was able to do both rear shocks. the bottom bolt on the drivers side was a major PITA. took almost an hour to get it off. didnt have much luck yet with the winch. trying again tomorrow.

it could be me, but i'm noticing major mpg diff between nj gas and pa gas. almost 3 mpg. this time got to pa with needle way closer to 1/4 tank. from pa got home with a bit over half on the needle.

the front suspension is doing great if its just one bump. however in a series it feels like its going crazy and all over the place more on the drivers side. what could cause this. control arm bushings, ball joints, tie rods, sway bar bushings?


lastly today a quick question on gas guage/tank light went off for me in brooklyn/queens borderline and finished driving home in rush hour traffic for another 30-40 miles and filled up upon getting home and it only took 20 gallons and the needle was almost touching red. is this normal?
 
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Old Jul 2, 2012 | 10:06 PM
  #59  
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yea the gas gauge in these trucks are not really accurate, some say dodge built a 5 gallon reserve into the gauge reading (it reads e with 5 gallons left in the tank), i have personally never put more than 19 or so gallons into my tank.
 
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Old Jul 2, 2012 | 11:25 PM
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Originally Posted by Pedro Faria
before we left i was able to do both rear shocks. the bottom bolt on the drivers side was a major PITA. took almost an hour to get it off.

it only took 20 gallons and the needle was almost touching red. is this normal?
The last time I changed my shocks the bottom bolts just sheared off when I tried to loosen them. I replaced both top ones and the broken bottoms ones with new ones from lowes.

My gas gauge is the same way. From E it will usually take between 20-21 gallons
 
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