So , I need to ask a question before I decide to take the D into my local dealership for a diagnosis.

I have a 2001 D SLT+ that I got used some time ago. Of late I have had a couple electrical gremlins that I can't work out. Some background. When I bought it, this was a replacement for my 99 318 D, and with the leftover claim money I got an aftermarket alarm installed.

The first issue is this. Around a year ago, my D's driver back door window was busted out, the door skin damaged, and I had insurance repair this. About 6 months later, my domes and door ajar lights stopped working when any of my passenger doors were opened. To insure that my alarm was not at fault, last night I removed the diode isolator, and reconnected the tan/red lead in a factory configuration, and still received no dome or door ajar. This being the case, I reinstalled a new diode and reconnected the alarm to the tan/red lead even though it's still not protected because of this failure. My first guess is that one of my door switches is bad. How can I determine which one is at fault without having to buy all three?

Second issue is that my console and rear power outlets have failed to provide power. I have tested every fuse in the in-car PDC, as well as replaced the fuse for the power outlets in the under hood PDC. Are these outlets connected in series? If so, is the one in the console the first one in the series? How can I remove and test the outlets to determine if I have a failed outlet? Or what diagnostics can I do to fix this myself?

I'm good at auto repair (the only time any of my cars has gone to the shop was my D last year to rebuild my AC after the compressor let go) however, past stereo installations, I'm pretty new to electrical work. So we can get technical, I'm not afraid to tear into it. Just in this case, since its not a failed mechanical part, I'm not sure where to start.

I decided to get into this now, after all this time, because i have had fools in my new neighborhood getting into my truck via these doors and rummaging around my interior. That, and having my phone charger hanging out of the dash has become quite annoying, as it gets in the way of my coffee cup on my office commute every morning.

 

i would remove the security system completely for now, it is still the most likely fault unless you returned ALL of the wires to factory configuration, and even then having it out of the equation for diagnosis is the best bet.

as for the door switches there should be 5, one for each door and one for the liftgate you should be able to test them easily enough w/ a digital multi-meter or continuity tester, circuit open when door closed, circuit closed when door open.

as for the power outlets they are on one fuse, and it is in the PDC, if you only did a visual inspection on it that is not good enough replace the fuse or check it with a digital ohm meter for continuity

 

I removed the diode isolators from the door triggers, and disconnected all the other leads of the alarm. I directly connected the door trigger leads in the factory configuration, and the truck still presented the same problem.

Yes, there are 5. However, since this is a passenger door issue, the issue is with the 3 passenger door lock actuators/switches, since in the Durango the door trigger switches are integrated into the door lock actuators. My dome lights and door ajar light still work properly with my driver door, and the dome lights and gate open light still work with the rear liftgate. My question is, where/how do I test these 3 door switches to determine which one is bad? Are they in series? In parellel? I know the tan/red is the negative, which lead in the harness inside the door is the positive? Will I even be able to test them in this fashion to find the fault?
I mean, this would work if they were parellel wired, but, if they are series, wouldn't they stop working at the first one in series that is stuck in a closed state? If they are in series, which is first in series (as that one would most likely be at fault, wouldn't it?)? I'm trying to determine a process through which I can reliabily determine which one of the three door lock actuators is as fault (or, if in fact, my CTM has failed, or is beginning to fail, and that is where my problem lies).

As I stated in the post, I replaced the fuse that was listed in the underhood PDC as the 20 amp for the Power Outlets, to no avail. Are these also wired in series? If so, is the one in the console first? How does one remove this outlet so as to test it?

 

Found it, and fixed it. I dug through all the doors, and couldn't find a fault. I finally relented, and took it to the dealer. For $200, they spent about 2 hours with it, and finally found two broken wires underneath my drivers seat area. They repaired these, and not only did it fix my door trigger issues, but it also fixed my power outlet issue. So, I got both issues fixed in two hours. That's total time from in the door to pick up. It got hooked up to the DRB scanner, and the tech told me in 5 minutes that none of the door switches were at fault, and that the problem lie in the ground trigger wire. Traced it through each of the door harnesses, and finally found it in the return run to the CTM under the driver seat.