Here is my break in for new engines...

Yours may be different..
Dyno oil changes and filters at 500, 1000, 1500, then go full synthetic for the rest of the life of the engine.

Reason... the block and heads are cast aluminum, cast in sand basically... new engines will have some casting and factory cleanup debris in the corners and in the oil passages... you want to get all the passages cleaned out...

Now - how about your coolant.... remember you have very small coolant holes in the head.. new engine - will have this sand as well, and it will play havoc on your water pump... I know a few coolant flushes seems like a PITA and expensive... but it is cheap insurance for a new engine..

Also you never mentioned how your engine "Blew UP" ... if it was a head gasket you could have blown junk into your coolant system, so don't take the chance and flush that thing a few times...

this is just "My way" - everyone has their own way...

 

you can use whichever oil type you want but i definitely agree on the short changes the first couple times to flush any dirt out. In a remanufactured engine this is most likely shavings from honing the cylinders or burrs left on parts from machining not sand (unless you bought a brand new engine but it doesnt sound like you did)

as for new installs, the 4.7 is happiest w/ the 195 dont bother switching that out as for switching from dino oil to synthetic can be done in one change no need to ween in to it.

 

The Timing Chain broke while at 55mph. I had metal fragments in the lower end of the engine (when crank shaft sensor was pulled a chunk of it was missing).

And yes, I purchased a remanufactured engine. How much of engine installation with a remanufactured engine is plug and play? Are there a lot of issues that could arise?

 

nothing really special jumps out at me as being bc it is a rebuilt engine, the only concern w/ the 4.7 is that the new engine and the old one have the same tone ring on them besides that everything is the same

 

Sorry to keep bumping this thread but I have a few more questions.

I received an email from the guy doing the engine replacement. In the email he requests the following items to complete the replacement:

• spark plugs ($3*8=$24 okay)
• 2 gallons of antifreeze ($15*2 = $30 okay )
• serpentine belt ($20 okay)
• belt tensioner and pulley (???)
• idler pulley ($20 okay)
• thermostat ($22 okay)
• water pump ($61 well, kinda okay...)
• gaskets for: intake ($14), oil pan ($54), valve cover ($30), and water pump ($8). ($106 for all. yikes!!!)

Most things are okay, fine, whatever, but I don't know what exactly he is looking for. Also this list doesn't include IAC, Camshaft Sensor, Air Filter, or Oil and Oil filter. I things I have questions about are below:

• Belt Tensioner and Pulley--I found this "NBH Drive Belt & Tensioner Kit" for $140 from Napa but is this a for sure needed item? Can't the old one be installed on the new engine?

• Gaskets...I purchased the engine because it came with the gaskets necessary to complete the install but he is telling me they are of a lower quality. Replacing all those gaskets with gaskets I already paid for sucks and I don't really want to buy new ones. A full gasket set from Napa is almost $600! Anyone know where I can find these gaskets cheaper but not low quality?
• Water Pump...I am not 100% sure on this. I feel that the old one on the D is good enough. I feel that when it dies, I should be able to change it...right?

 

As long as the belt tensinoer an pully is good an holds the belt tight then I would use it,, An for the waterpump I would replace it while you are at it,, Cause if the old one has been setting around an dryed up then it will go bad soon then you will have to replace it then,, I would put a new one on it an it be done,, Winter days are comeing an I wouldn't want to have to get out there an replace it then,,lol

 

Go to rockauto.com for parts. the water pump buy a new one NOT a rebuilt what gaskets came with the new engine ?

 

The gaskets that came with the engine was a complete kit. I guess the place where I purchased the engine sent some lower quality gaskets. That's all I really know. I am going to go look first hand and see.

 

I went and talked to the guy and we decided that the gaskets were good...just the cardboard box they came in were crap.

I also took some pictures of the old engine. I'll see if I can upload here. Sorry in advanced if images are too big.

Here is the wide view photo of the engine.



Here is the "There's Your Problem" photo. You can see the damaged timing chain thingy.

 

Couple chunks missing there!