The tranny has fresh fluid and filter (I checked the fluid myself). They had it changed hoping it would fix the problem, of course it didn't. I don't yet know enough about the 46RE to determine if a speed sensor would prevent a 1-2 shift, but I suppose it could. I would have to assume a bad speed sensor would also throw a code, would it not? There are no codes at this time. Of course, the battery is completely dead and it has to be jumped to start.

 

no a bad speed sensor would not throw a code, however a bad speed sensor USUALLY causes a LATE shift out of first, not no shift.

i would lean towards the bands needing adjustment myself, no not all shops do this when they change the fluid in fact most dont.

 

When i first got my D i took it to 4 trans shops to get a quote on how much it cost to change fluids for me... of the 4 shop ALL 4 shops had no clue my trans had bands..

 

Could just be a transmission output sensor, located on the drivers side. Cheap $30 part and 5 min install. Usually cures a lot of issues. Here is something you can do as well: http://www.dodgeforum.com/forum/1st-...-problems.html

 

That scares me Old School... All the cars n trucks out there that those shops have serviced and none of them knew.

 

It doesn't supprise me, if it's not in the computer most mechanics anymore don't know ****.........

 

Is this the post you were referring to:

https://dodgeforum.com/forum/2660956-post4.html

That thread is so convoluted, it's hard to follow.

 

Update:

I finally got a couple of tires on it yesterday, only to discover the front to rear brake line was completely rotten. I replaced the entire line from the frame block up front all the way to the wheel cylinders, including the rubber hose and wheel cylinders. Unfortunately, I think I cross threaded the fitting into the frame block up front (on the frame almost directly below the master cylinder) because it's leaking and won't tighten up. The question is, can I just install a coupler there and bypass the block all together? It would only be a temporary fix, just enough to road test the transmission. I'm going to see if Napa has a block tomorrow morning. If they do, I will install it, but if not, would the coupler be OK?

Also, I set the E-brake and started the engine. I shifted through all of the gears and it went right in every time. However, I noticed that the gear indicator on the dash was way off. P was actually Reverse, R was neutral, etc, etc... I know that on some trannys, this can cause a problem. Is it also true for the 46RE? I should be able to actually drive it tomorrow...finally.

Thanks again.

 

If the block doesn't have wires, meaning some sort of proportioning valve, a coupler is a fine temporary solution. I would recommend getting it back to stock when you can though. Brakes are not something you want hodge podged together.

The needle being off from the letter is probably not related to the transmission itself. The shift lever on the column pulls on a cable, that has a VERY soft cable end loop, that connects to the needle, which is spring loaded...and pulls it. Then as you shift back and forth, you're playing tug of war with the spring and the needle is the flag on the rope.

You can access that under the panel beneath the steering column. You'll see what I mean and you should be able to tell if the cable end loop is bent or maybe not on the needle correctly. My Durango's needle is the same, ever since I changed the heater core years ago and I wasn't able to get it perfectly back into adjustment. It doesn't hurt anything so I leave it as is.

 

I got the brakes functioning well enough to try to drive it today. Here is what happened:

Got in this morning and started it up, put it in drive and drove it 25 feet to better ground for bleeding the brakes, no problems at all. Did some more brake work. Started it up again to drive it down the road and ...no forward motion. I tried reverse, no reverse. When I tried to put it in park, I got a grinding noise, then it went into park. Tried all forward gears (D, 2, 1) no forward. At one point I felt it kick into D pretty hard, but when I hit the gas, no forward.

After all of this, I got back under it and found tranny fluid coming from the bell housing. Would I be wrong to assume the bushing between the torque converter and pump has failed? I am having it towed to my house on Sunday so I can drop the pan.