Sigh. Mechanic got all of my bolts out but had to drill tap and helicoil the holes. While tapping the lower rear bolt on the passenger side he hit a water jacket and put a small slice in it in the upper part of the bolt hole. Has anyone been successful in sealing this? He said he put Teflon tape on the helicoil and is going to put Teflon tape on the stud. Any better ideas or am i basically S O L?


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Finally got my truck back from the mechanic. Doesn't leak water as of yet, and the exhaust seems to have sealed up nicely. Had to put on a pair of split flanges since mine were rotted out. Is there a retorque period on the manifold bolts or is it safe to put the wheel liners back in?


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if you are set on a rebuild once you pull everything out and get it to the machine shop have them check all the parts and contact you first. Most times the crank and rod can be re used unless something major has happened to them. the block should be bored just so you can get a good seat on the new rings. If the crank and rods check good then the cost is alot less. The shop i use to have the block hot tanked bored new core plugs new cam bearings and painted was right around the $450 range. you can add more for the pistons if they have to bore the block. The 1K price is if you replace the complete bottom end. most times you dont have to do that.

 

I just put it back together, seems to be sealing ok with the manifolds being surfaced and new gaskets. was wondering if the manifolds need retorqued after a certain amount of heat cycles?


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I always retorque after a few heat cycles. Then check at 50 miles, 500 miles, and follow up oil change. If none are loose during those checks, you're fine.

 

Sweet thanks.


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