and most mechanics wont even do that unless asked to

 

IIRC, the '99 Durango with the 5.9 requires you run premium fuel only due to the tuning of the PCM. There should be a sticker on the inside of the fuel door the says 'PREMIUM FUEL ONLY'.

 

Not the 99s. 2000-2001s.

And yes there is a sticker inside the fuel door. Generally on the R/Ts due to the PCM tune.

IndyD

 

Do a search on this website about the kegger mod. The guys in the ram section have a huge kegger mod/plenum thread collection. I did the kegger mod, helped 2500-3200 throttle response, you wont feel a tremendous gain just something you can notice.

 

Thanks guys, I took it to my tranny guy and the 2nd gear lining was sitting the pan and the pan magnet looked like a flower it had so much metal stuck to it. Its getting rebuilt as I type for $2000 including taxes (and he is letting me do payments and I dropped $1000 to him right away. It didn't throw any codes other than the speed sensor in the trans and a miss fire of #8 cyl in the history. When I get it back I'll do a plenum check, and I'll check out the intake mod in the mean time, thanks adukart

 

Got the Durango back on friday. She sure does go like stink with a that big 360 and a solid trans with a shift kit. it runs great now, and there is no hesitation, i do however notice bursts in power from this thing under full power, not smooth or linear. In the coming weeks i will do plugs, wires, cap and rotor to see if it helps. It needs it, they are old.

Adukart, my durango is identical to yours, color, rims and everything. I love the color, and since it was well taken care of, it sure shines.

now it has a solid foundation, and i will build upon it. When it was up on the lift in the tranny shop i noticed it is clean enough to eat off of. My plan is to buy a set of core heads, and intake, do the keg mod and port and polish the heads (my own skills) with a better valve cut. Ill also replace the mechanical fan with an electric one, and fab up my own home made CAI.

i do have some more questions though

anyone ever buy the $150 headers off ebay? you know the ones, having a not perfect flange isnt a big deal for me, i use aluminum gaskets, and i can do other work to make them sealed, i am just wondering about longevity. I have heard the Y-Pipe is the most restrictive part of the exhaust, if true i am planning to build a double X exhaust system for the sensors.

how tough are the rearends on these? can they reliably hold 450 or so ftlbs? are there any tricks?

Any preferences with programers? Any one that works better with dodges than another? And I'm looking for a switchable style that will allow me to switch between a fuel econ mode, and full tilt poop your pants power

I have heard about platnum plugs not working well on these engines, how do they run with synthetic oils? I'm talking rearend, trans, front end, engine and transfer case, all of it, people have told me it isnt worth the extra cost to gain that extra MPG, but when i do it to vehicles, they all seem smoother, quicker to move and yes while i have seen a slight increase in MPG in the past, i dont do it soley for MPG.

thanks for any help guys and girls

P.S. my wife is right into me doing mods to it as long as she approves them, BONUS!!

 

I run all synth Mobil1 in all places with no issues.

IndyDurango

 

I run amsoil in the motor and valvoline synthetic atf+4 in the tranny. It really helps in the cold I've noticed. I love my sct tuner done by hemifevertuning. He does more with the shift points and torque management that the other "catch all" tuners do. Unless you have your truck tuned by an individual you wont see its full potential. I'm planning on camming mine next summer and having my heads gone through and ported out by the local performance/machine shop.

 

700 km ram.
i have those headers from ebay and they worked fine.
the only issue i had with mine was that the exhaust flange wasnt long enough, so i had to remove my skid plate from under the truck so i could move my y pipe closer to the flange to get it to bolt up. the headers are flawless! i didnt use any gasket, i just used copper rtv, i applied it to the cylinder head and put the headers on and just bolted right to it.
i was unfortunite to find that when i was doing this project 2 bolt on my passenger side and 1 on my drivers side were broken off flush with cylinder head, and had been that way for a very long time, long befor i bought the truck. i wasnt able to remove them, but even with the broken bolts and only having 4 out of the 6 bolts holding on the drivers side i have had no leaks since i installed them and that was at the beginning of the spring.
if your going to do headers my sugguestion to you is that prior to do this project you get some good penitrating oil like liquid wrench, and spray it on the bolts every day twice a day for at least a week, and dont worry about the smell. but dont spray your bolts and drive it immediately after wait a few hours then drive it. also if your bolts wont come out with a wrench dont push it cuz it doesnt take much to break em off.
with mine i used a torch and ended up torched em off flush with the outside of the manifold and removed the manifold, then i resprayed em with the penitrating oil and used a set vice gripps and lightly tapped it with a mallet to get em out. thats the best way of getting em out in my oppinion.
and...
go to hughesengines.com, they have an amazing intake manifold. the f1 air gapper intake manifold. it accomidates injectors and they it in a kit for $599.00. im getting it. and im getting ther 55mm throttle body. yes i said it a 55mm t/b. the biggest one on the market.
they also have the sct tuner. when you order it they give you a bunch of options to chose from. you get 3 pre set tunes. one is for your stock setting and the other 2 can be for towing or race or high torque or high hp or for highway for higher mpg.
and for the axles. yes they can accomidate for more than 450 ftlbs but it all depends on what gearing you have 3.92, 4.11, 4.56. are the gears you want for higher hp and tq. 4.11 preferable, i got 3.92 now but im switching to 4.11 when i do overhaul in the spring.
some synthetic oils are better than others i also run full syn in all areas of my durango. they run better in cold climates than traditional oils. especially in your cranke case. and dont forget if you have a limited lip differential YOU HAVE TO USE A FRICTION MODIFIER!!!!! if you dont you will burn out your clutch plates and thats no bueno! lol.
if you want to get a set of heads get the good ones like i did. edelbrock rpm, with 2.02 intake valves and 1.60 exhaust valves with a 3 angle valve job. no porting and polishing nessisarry!!! there a bit pricier but well worth it. allong with there f1 intake manifold and there big gulp t/b you will have gained a ton of extra hp and tq and you will have a higher rpm range.
so i wish you the best of luck and happy holidays!!