Ball Joint Replacement Procedure?
#11
07-02-2007, 10:39 AM
RE: Ball Joint Replacement Procedure?
I just finished one side of my 2004 Dak. One suggestion to steps 1-7. I tool the tire off, removedcotter key, castle nut cap and spring washer from the end of the axle. Then I had my daughter step on the brake and I was able to break free the 32 mm nut. This saved putting the tire back on and lowering the jack, etc. When torquing the nuts back to 165 ft #'s, I did the same thing.
Another note... The lower BJ is a real pain in the As*. Of the 4 hours the project took (for one side), 1-1/2 hours was getting the lower joint out. I bought a press on ebay, but it was in tight. I even bent the press.
Another note... The lower BJ is a real pain in the As*. Of the 4 hours the project took (for one side), 1-1/2 hours was getting the lower joint out. I bought a press on ebay, but it was in tight. I even bent the press.
ORIGINAL: jn2jhavens
Here are the steps that I used to do this a couple of weeks ago on my 98 durango 4x4.
1. Remove front tire one side.
2. Remove center cap from rim of tire just removed.
3. Remove cotter key, castle nut cap and spring washer from the end of the axle.
4. Put the tire back on without the center cap on it. (Assuming stock rims)
5. Put vehicle back on the ground.
6. Loosen axle nut with vehicle on the ground. (I did not do this on one side and had to replace the whole drive axle assembly. I ruined one of the joints trying to break this bolt loose with the vehicle off the ground. $110 mistake you may not want to make.)
7. Re-remove the tire and support the vehicle.
8. Remove caliper and support it out of the way.
9. Remove the bolt that holds the brake line to the upper a-arm. (This will allow you to move the caliper and get it out of the way)
10. Use pickle fork (or your choice of tool) and drop the tie rod end from the steering knuckle.
11. Remove bolts that hold the front wheel bearing in and remove the wheel bearing.
12. Remove all inner bolts (6 or 8 don't remember) from inside end of axle and remove axle.
13. Use pickle fork (or your choice of tool) and drop the knuckle from the upper ball joint.
14. Use pickle fork (or your choice of tool) and drop the knuckle from the lower ball joint.
15. Set steering knuckle aside.
16. Use air chisel and chisel off the three rivet heads on the upper ball joint.
17. Once heads are removed use sharp punch bit in air chisel and drive the rivets down and out, and remove upper ball joint.
18. Bolt new ball joint in place and torque to spec. (50 -60 ft-lbs)
19. Use ball joint remover and remove lower ball joint. ( The right tool here makes this part very easy, otherwise it can be difficult)
20. Press in new lower ball joint. (The right tool here makes this part very easy, otherwise it can be difficult)
21. Put steering knuckle back on and bolt it to both upper and lower ball joints. (Make sure brake line is run properly before completing this step)
22. Torque to spec. (Sorry don't remember but it is in your chiltons)
23. Put wheel bearing back in and torque to spec. (Sorry don't remember but it is in your chiltons)
24. Put axle back in (slide into wheel bearing) and bolt up the inner bolts and torque to spec. (Sorry don't remember but it is in your chiltons)
25. Put axle nut back on and snug up, do not torque yet.
26. Put steering arm tie rod end back on and bolt it up and torque to spec. (Sorry don't remember but it is in your chiltons)
27. Put caliper back on and torque to spec. (Sorry don't remember but it is in your chiltons)
28. Put brake line clamp bolt back in.
29. Put tire back on and set vehicle on the ground without center cap in rim.
30. Torque the axle nut to spec. (Sorry don't remember but it is in your chiltons)
31. Re-raise the vehicle and put the spring washer castle nut and cotter key back on the end of the axle.
32. Put center piece back on rim and put tire back on. Torque lug nuts to spec. (Sorry don't remember but it is in your chiltons)
33. Set vehicle down and start the otherside.
Hope this helps.
Here are the steps that I used to do this a couple of weeks ago on my 98 durango 4x4.
1. Remove front tire one side.
2. Remove center cap from rim of tire just removed.
3. Remove cotter key, castle nut cap and spring washer from the end of the axle.
4. Put the tire back on without the center cap on it. (Assuming stock rims)
5. Put vehicle back on the ground.
6. Loosen axle nut with vehicle on the ground. (I did not do this on one side and had to replace the whole drive axle assembly. I ruined one of the joints trying to break this bolt loose with the vehicle off the ground. $110 mistake you may not want to make.)
7. Re-remove the tire and support the vehicle.
8. Remove caliper and support it out of the way.
9. Remove the bolt that holds the brake line to the upper a-arm. (This will allow you to move the caliper and get it out of the way)
10. Use pickle fork (or your choice of tool) and drop the tie rod end from the steering knuckle.
11. Remove bolts that hold the front wheel bearing in and remove the wheel bearing.
12. Remove all inner bolts (6 or 8 don't remember) from inside end of axle and remove axle.
13. Use pickle fork (or your choice of tool) and drop the knuckle from the upper ball joint.
14. Use pickle fork (or your choice of tool) and drop the knuckle from the lower ball joint.
15. Set steering knuckle aside.
16. Use air chisel and chisel off the three rivet heads on the upper ball joint.
17. Once heads are removed use sharp punch bit in air chisel and drive the rivets down and out, and remove upper ball joint.
18. Bolt new ball joint in place and torque to spec. (50 -60 ft-lbs)
19. Use ball joint remover and remove lower ball joint. ( The right tool here makes this part very easy, otherwise it can be difficult)
20. Press in new lower ball joint. (The right tool here makes this part very easy, otherwise it can be difficult)
21. Put steering knuckle back on and bolt it to both upper and lower ball joints. (Make sure brake line is run properly before completing this step)
22. Torque to spec. (Sorry don't remember but it is in your chiltons)
23. Put wheel bearing back in and torque to spec. (Sorry don't remember but it is in your chiltons)
24. Put axle back in (slide into wheel bearing) and bolt up the inner bolts and torque to spec. (Sorry don't remember but it is in your chiltons)
25. Put axle nut back on and snug up, do not torque yet.
26. Put steering arm tie rod end back on and bolt it up and torque to spec. (Sorry don't remember but it is in your chiltons)
27. Put caliper back on and torque to spec. (Sorry don't remember but it is in your chiltons)
28. Put brake line clamp bolt back in.
29. Put tire back on and set vehicle on the ground without center cap in rim.
30. Torque the axle nut to spec. (Sorry don't remember but it is in your chiltons)
31. Re-raise the vehicle and put the spring washer castle nut and cotter key back on the end of the axle.
32. Put center piece back on rim and put tire back on. Torque lug nuts to spec. (Sorry don't remember but it is in your chiltons)
33. Set vehicle down and start the otherside.
Hope this helps.
#12
09-25-2012, 08:28 PM
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not enough room for axel to drop out
Hi, following thread on removing lower ball joints on 98 durango 4wd. I have rotors and caliper off , as well as the bearing hub . I took out the 6 bolts for the inner axel and it is free. I don't have clearance to remove the axel . The spindle on the wheel end is sticking through the knucke hole. Did I miss something? It sounds like the axel should just come out . Any help or comments are appreciated . Thanks in advance . Jim
#13
09-26-2012, 02:14 AM
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I unscrewed the bolts from the upper control arm to the upper ball joint, leaving the upper ball joint connected to the knuckle. It took me A WEEK to figure out how to press out the lower ball joint. I rented the press from autozone, and bent wrenches, cheaters, it was in there TIGHT. I eventually got a propane blowtorch from wal-mart for 15$ and after heating the lower control arm and bending more tools was able get it out with the combination of the blowtorch and the ball joint press.
The autozone lower ball joints were junk. After installing one, the boot just fell off. Anyway, have fun.
The autozone lower ball joints were junk. After installing one, the boot just fell off. Anyway, have fun.
#14
09-26-2012, 12:43 PM
#15
09-27-2012, 08:06 AM
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I did get one side done . I had to take axel out to get to lower ball joint . The lower ball joint pressed out ok . I had a little confusion as to how to press the new one in using auto zone rental . I basically did it the same way I took it out . This worked fine until the very end . The replacedments have a snap ring that goes on . The way I did it with press I think I compressed it a little and can't get snap ring on but the bearing is all the way up on the bottom . I am a little concerned about that . Can I spot weld it so it doest come out.
#16
10-16-2012, 08:00 AM
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I was on looking up some info on how to change inner tre and came across this. Thought I would update . I ended up getting things done properly . I had never done ball joints before and the durango makes it even a little more interesting . Thanks to everyones help I got er done . After doing side two , which was a lot easier with a little exp. , I took another look at side one that I couldint get the snap ring on . I basically didn't get it pressed in quite far enough . Did that and it went right on . A little scary and glad I fixed it . To people like myself who are doing it for the first time , it is doable just make sure you press the ball joint in all the way . I highly doubt I used the press in tool quite the way I was supposed to , but I made it work . Some one had mentioned an adapter kit to rent as well as the press . This probobly would have solved that issure as well . Going for shocks and inner tre next . Hope that does it till spring anyway . Thanks to any who contributed to my questions . It made all the difference and saved me a lot of money . Thanks again Jim
#17
03-19-2013, 01:12 PM
