Hi,

Noticing my post hasn't received a reply so I thought maybe I would re-post, thinking I may have not communicated very well.

I have a 2000 Dodge Durango 4WD 4.7, and currently has no error codes.

My Durango stalled one day, since then I have replaced the cam, crank sensor, fuel pump reply, and the fuel pump and it still will not start. It cranks just won't start. When I spray starting fluid in the throttle body, ir runs momentarily, then stops of course.

When I turn the ignition on, the fuel pump does not whine....

Yesterday while testing all relays, and the relay spots in the fuse box under the hood I noticed the spot for the fuel pump relay only lights up in the #30 spot. All the other relay fuse spots all lit up in two areas, whereas the fuel pump on one spot, and that is with the key in the on position.

Could somebody let me now please what I need to do to fix this? What do I need to replace?

Also, is it possible to run a jumper wire direct from the battery to the fuel pump and maybe just use a toggle switch?

I really need some help please? And I greatly appreciate it.

Thank you

 

First, i will start off by saying i think you explained it very well in BOTH threads....

Next i will say that this is a internet forum where the people come on to help when life allows. There is not anyone sitting around just waiting to answer questions and 5 hours is hardly enough time for most people to see it and offer help.

On a regular day you be lucky if someone sees it by the end of the day but, today is the last day of a holiday weekend where most are either spending the day with the family or in the middle of a family vacation. Sit back, relax and i am sure someone will be around to answer your post in time, there is no need to clog up the forum with multiple threads of the same question.

Now, to answer your question, #30 is a constant hot from the battery so it will always have power. #85 is your trigger, it should only have power with the key on. #86 is your ground for the relay and should never have voltage. #87 is the line to the fuel pump that is givin power when the relay is activated (or open). #87a is not used but, will have power when the relay is closed.

So, if your getting power to #30 with the key off and power to #30 & #85 with the key on everything is working as it should. my next step would be to check if you are getting voltage back to the pump. if not you got a bad new relay or not getting a trigger to activate that relay, if you do then you got a bad new fuel pump. Yes it does happen on a occasion that you get bad new parts, has happend to me a few times as well.

 

Hello Old School,

My apologies.. I should have known better actually. Guess I was just to anxious.

I just went out and tested the relay and the results are;

Using this image-



86 lights up with ignition on.
85- with ignition on the lite will be very dim

When ignition is turning over, none of them will light up.


Thank you
Steven

 

Hmm sounds like you have a loose wire somewhere, most likely the ground...i would trace back every wire and see if anything is loose... PITA i know but electrical issues are the worst... ill see if i can dig up a fuel pump wiring diagram for ya.

 

Hey Old School, I greatly appreciate it. and yes, electrical is a PITA!

I have alot of those little piney squirrels around here, and after your suggestion, it leaves me wondering if those little PITA varmits got their revenge on me... I've been letting them know what I would like to do...

Steven

 

that's very well possible... being that you have very little voltage on the ground side i would place my bet that the ground is the one chewed up/loose... you could always take a jumper and strip a little off the end and put it in the ground spot and re insert the relay... take the other end and ground it somewhere and see if she cranks.

 

Hey Old School,

ran into another delay the past few days....

I will be trying the jumper later today and will let you know then.

Thank you
Steven

 

Hey Old School....

finally made the time to try the ground suggestion today, and still no go.

Is it possible the PCM may need replaced? and is there a way to test them first?

Thank you