i am desperate, and i could really use some help here. we just got our 2000 4.7 about 2 months ago, and its been an uphill struggle since the first week. what started as a "great investment" has turned into a huge curse and burden on my wallet.

so i guess i'll start with the first problem til now.

when i bought it, both exhaust manifolds were missing bolts and had blown through the gaskets, so that was the first, and by far easiest, fix ive done to it yet. the lower u joint in the steering arm to the steering box is busted, abs light is flashing (new rear sensor but it wont reset), when you floor the pedal it doesnt shift gears until you back off about half way, and theres a sulfur smell that comes in if im using the air conditioning or heat, but im ignoring those for now, cause the next week...

it started randomly dying, with "no bus" on the dash. a little time on google i had that figured out, i could push in on the center pcm plug and i could hear everything under the hood click back on. so i pulled the pcm, to find it was refurb'd in october 2012, so i called up the po, got the number the warranty was under, and got another ordered from autoblown, yes i had the vin and mileage flashed, and im not security enabled as far as i know. put the new one in, and she was fine, for 4 weeks, until last weekend...


my wife called, said it wont stay running and the cel was on. she limped it to a safe place and i towed it home. pulled the codes and got p0108 & p1296, both pointing at the map sensor being faulty. before i drop 120 bucks on it, i cleared the codes (by disconnecting the battery) and started it again, and it would run for a few minutes, fighting it the entire time before finally dying. this time only had code p0120 come up, so i replaced the tps since it was way cheaper. doing so, made it run even worse. would only run about 30 seconds, or only a few seconds, throwing code p0121, cleared again, p0123, so i pulled the new tps back out, cleared and back to p0108.

so i went to the local jy, and found 3 more map's, and i rotated them through, clearing the comp each time, and no change except it only runs a few seconds now, still throws code p0108 before it dies. so i bit the bullet and bought a brand new map, no change what so ever, i took all 4 back.

since then, i have cleaned every ground i can find and reach (behind battery, both above firewall, behind airbox, cant reach the one on the valve cover), replaced the alternator charge wire (po had it all chopped up), replaced the battery terminals, cleaned the iacv, and replaced the crank sensor (not by choice) i broke the damn thing while trying to check its condition. i decided to start it with the sensor unplugged, and it actually ran better and longer without it, but still only lasted for about 1 minute. after 5 hours of screaming, cussing, drilling, pulling, i eventually got most of the ckp sensor out, the rest fell inside and i really dont care right now, got the new one in, and its back to running like crap still only throwing p0108. i checked the voltage with the key on, violets giving 4v and green 3v, when its running i get 4v and 0v, same thing at the pcm. i checked continuity with the grounds there and the tps, getting a constant ground.

so i called up autoblown again, i'll have another pcm in on tuesday, that would be its 4th so far that i know of in its lifetime. currently sitting with 232k on it.

and for some reason, the durango and my 5.9 jeep seem to have synced their clocks, and im stuck in their pms boxing ring getting the crap beat out of me. every time it revs past 3k, it pops an unmarked fuse under the hood and shuts down.

oh, and i might be getting a job in the next week or 2 that will require 900 mile one way trips

twice every 2 weeks, this cant seriously be happening right now...

 

Every sentence kept saying to me get a new PCM. Theres always lots of bad luck just getting a new part thats bad right off the bat. Hopefully this next one does it. Otherwise second guess is grounds. I know you said you've checked and cleaned but all it takes is one missed one. Switches and sensors can screw up the whole system too. Was your truck in a flood? How much did you get it for.

 

Well the sulfur smell points to either a plugged up catalytic converter or battery so I would check both of those. A weak or bad battery can play havoc with these trucks. A plugged catalytic will cause problems also as will the o2 sensors. Hope this helps.

 

the sulfur smell is coming from behind the battery, around where the evap service port is. the battery is actually bigger than its supposed to be for the truck, but its putting a solid 11.5 without the alternator puttin power to it, and ive done pretty much nothing but start start start without it running long enough to charge for the last week, seems to be doing pretty good considering, but i may hook it up to the jeep for extra juice to see what happens.

truck wasnt in a flood that im aware of, first thing i did was pull the interior and clean it, since i had to replace the rear inner quarter panels (dip**** po cut out the cup hodlers and just dropped 6x9s in without screws), there wasnt any sign of flood damage under the carpet.

i didnt pay anything for it, i traded my accord with 300k and a very tired dying engine and everything worn to bits for it. seemed worth it at the time..

 

i put a "new" pcm in last night, she fired right up. still doesnt rev past 3k unless you work into it and not mash it to the floor, but i dont care, its driving. this new pcm is different than all the others though. its thinner, has rounded edges, and no heat sinks molded into the body, not to mention weighs about half as much as the old ones.