1st Gen Durango 1998 - 2003 Durango's

2001 Durango SLT Starts then Dies after 2-3 seconds

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Old Jan 3, 2014 | 07:37 PM
  #11  
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Well, problem surfaced again today. Daughter drove car to airport and when she tried to leave it started/immediately dies again. She claimed that the security light did not stay on but I can't confirm that she was looking in right place.No codes again. After trying several times with no luck, I asked her to put key in and out a few times and jiggle the key when in. Well, it started and didn't die. It looks like it may be a loose wire or ignition key cylinder.

I'm going to take off the steering wheel cover and check for a loose wire to the ignition. If I don't find a loose wire, should I consider replacing the ignition? Is this something that must be done at the dealer because of the transponder keys? Anything else I should check?

Thanks for your help
 
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Old Jan 3, 2014 | 07:47 PM
  #12  
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Common symptoms of failing CTM. But enjoy your wire search
 
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Old Jan 4, 2014 | 05:39 PM
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Originally Posted by Genius
Well, problem surfaced again today. Daughter drove car to airport and when she tried to leave it started/immediately dies again. She claimed that the security light did not stay on but I can't confirm that she was looking in right place.No codes again. After trying several times with no luck, I asked her to put key in and out a few times and jiggle the key when in. Well, it started and didn't die. It looks like it may be a loose wire or ignition key cylinder.

I'm going to take off the steering wheel cover and check for a loose wire to the ignition. If I don't find a loose wire, should I consider replacing the ignition? Is this something that must be done at the dealer because of the transponder keys? Anything else I should check?

Thanks for your help
If shaking the key while trying to start it helped, it may be a loose connection between the key and the pins inside the ignition. It may be warn out. I would consider replacing the ignition, but I do believe you'll have to get it programmed at the dealer which could get expensive. The CTM is a possibility, but with the lack of other known symptoms of a failing CTM, I doubt this is the issue. I wouldn't say the issue is with a loose wire either as shaking the key helped the issue, not shaking a wiring harness. But those are all the possibilities I can think of. Do with it what you will but I don't recommend throwing parts at it. If you can't figure it out, take it to someone who can, don't waste your money based on our suggestions

PublicHair, no need to get upset, we're all just throwing out ideas. Brainstorming if you wanna call it that.
 
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Old Jan 4, 2014 | 06:36 PM
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I’m not upset at all.

I pay people to fix my vehicles for me now. I do take what I learn from reading up on the web thought o make sure the dealer and myself are on the same page so they aren’t wasting my money for me.

But best I can do is provide feedback based on what I’ve read/seen/experienced. If someone wants to go on a goose hunt, let em enjoy the hunt! (as I agree with you, take the vehicle to someone who actually knows what they are doing besides asking us for ideas)
 
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Old May 9, 2014 | 02:08 AM
  #15  
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replace the crank sensor it's on the right side on the block. it will do just what your describing take it to the shop not the dealer ship and tell them that or do it urself its easy as long as it aint stuck
 
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Old May 9, 2014 | 05:49 PM
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Might actually be a fuel pump, check the psi. Next time it quits open the hood and depress the fuel rail (cover eyes flying gas) and see if there is any pressure or test it, should be about 50 psi.
 
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Old Sep 22, 2016 | 11:31 AM
  #17  
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I have a 2003 4.7 in my Durango. I bought it about two years ago and it has wanted to stall almost every time shortly after starting. Shut it off and start it and it usually runs all good. Lately I have found that as soon as I sense it hesitating...I punch it for a millisecond and then it runs fine. I don't even spin my gravel.
This is after bringing it to every mechanic in town, none of whom are sure...and 'part changing' seems to be the order of the day. However...I am not going to buy into that (literally). I cannot afford it.
So far in reading herein, and in all the mechanic's blathering...it seems to let whatever the part(s) are totally fail, and then a code should point to the culprit. Course you are stuck out wherever.
Logically, as someone said here, it should not be the key if the vehicle runs at all.
My engine light is almost always on, but sometimes goes off for a week at a time. My truck wants to stall regardless of the light being on or not.
I did bite the bullet for $50 and got a spare key with transponder, but never did more than start it for a few seconds and then stash it.
I will try anything once, as I propose an 800 mile trip come November.

Anyone else got a clue?
 
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Old Sep 23, 2016 | 06:56 AM
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I signed up yesterday 9/22/16, and posted here about this issue. At that time I did see my input at the tail end of the other posts. Today it is not here, so this is just an exploratory to see if I am exercising futility.
 
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Old Sep 23, 2016 | 09:00 AM
  #19  
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You have to get transponder keys programmed in to have them work. How old is the battery? Punching it would raise the voltage from the alt, note make something work better.

It's also preferred you start a new thread on an issue rather than add to a few year old one, better visibility.
 
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