Problem refilling antifreeze...need help.
#1
Problem refilling antifreeze...need help.
2002 Durango 4.7L SXT 4x4
Yesterday, the filler neck on the upper radiator hose cracked. I replaced it with a Dayco D72447 from AutoZone. The first thing I noticed was that the radiator cap does not remove from the neck. It looks as if the cap was molded around the neck...no slots are in the plastic for it to be removed. I figured, okay, I can fill it through the reservoir and the cap is just for pressure release purposes. I put the hose on, filled the reservoir, let it run for a while, no problems. I then took it out on the road and it immediately started to overheat. I watched a video this morning and the guy said that the antifreeze MUST go in the hose/neck when filling...not in the reservoir. Can I just fill it through the bleeder valve? Am I doing something wrong? Should the antifreeze be sucked in from the reservoir? Since I can't remove the cap, I can't see in the hose. My next stop will be the thermostat, but I want to know that I've done this properly before moving on.
Again, the cap will not come off. It is as if the cap was formed around the neck with no slots in the neck. I can turn it so that the cap is loose, then turn it back to tighten it. It appears to be intentionally made that way and not defective.
Yesterday, the filler neck on the upper radiator hose cracked. I replaced it with a Dayco D72447 from AutoZone. The first thing I noticed was that the radiator cap does not remove from the neck. It looks as if the cap was molded around the neck...no slots are in the plastic for it to be removed. I figured, okay, I can fill it through the reservoir and the cap is just for pressure release purposes. I put the hose on, filled the reservoir, let it run for a while, no problems. I then took it out on the road and it immediately started to overheat. I watched a video this morning and the guy said that the antifreeze MUST go in the hose/neck when filling...not in the reservoir. Can I just fill it through the bleeder valve? Am I doing something wrong? Should the antifreeze be sucked in from the reservoir? Since I can't remove the cap, I can't see in the hose. My next stop will be the thermostat, but I want to know that I've done this properly before moving on.
Again, the cap will not come off. It is as if the cap was formed around the neck with no slots in the neck. I can turn it so that the cap is loose, then turn it back to tighten it. It appears to be intentionally made that way and not defective.
Last edited by wralyn; 09-12-2015 at 11:55 AM.
#3
I may have taken care of it by just filling through the bleed valve. There was definitely no coolant in the hose/block. I've got to run to the store for more coolant, then test it out. Again, the cap does not come off. I guess I can service it through the bleed valve from now on. Other than requiring an allen wrench and a funnel, is there a downside or problem with doing it that way?
I know this may sound simple, but I'm not very knowledgeable of the cooling system. I just want to make sure I don't screw up the simplest of repairs.
I know this may sound simple, but I'm not very knowledgeable of the cooling system. I just want to make sure I don't screw up the simplest of repairs.
#4
You can say the cap doesn't come off as much as you want, but it is supposed to come off. If not you have a defective part, no question about it.
Anyway filling through the bleeder should be fine, just more work. The 01-03 cooling systems won't self bleed if I remember correctly, so you will just need to make sure you get all of the air out.
Anyway filling through the bleeder should be fine, just more work. The 01-03 cooling systems won't self bleed if I remember correctly, so you will just need to make sure you get all of the air out.
#5
2002 Durango 4.7L SXT 4x4
Yesterday, the filler neck on the upper radiator hose cracked. I replaced it with a Dayco D72447 from AutoZone. The first thing I noticed was that the radiator cap does not remove from the neck. It looks as if the cap was molded around the neck...no slots are in the plastic for it to be removed. I figured, okay, I can fill it through the reservoir and the cap is just for pressure release purposes. I put the hose on, filled the reservoir, let it run for a while, no problems. I then took it out on the road and it immediately started to overheat. I watched a video this morning and the guy said that the antifreeze MUST go in the hose/neck when filling...not in the reservoir. Can I just fill it through the bleeder valve? Am I doing something wrong? Should the antifreeze be sucked in from the reservoir? Since I can't remove the cap, I can't see in the hose. My next stop will be the thermostat, but I want to know that I've done this properly before moving on.
Again, the cap will not come off. It is as if the cap was formed around the neck with no slots in the neck. I can turn it so that the cap is loose, then turn it back to tighten it. It appears to be intentionally made that way and not defective.
Yesterday, the filler neck on the upper radiator hose cracked. I replaced it with a Dayco D72447 from AutoZone. The first thing I noticed was that the radiator cap does not remove from the neck. It looks as if the cap was molded around the neck...no slots are in the plastic for it to be removed. I figured, okay, I can fill it through the reservoir and the cap is just for pressure release purposes. I put the hose on, filled the reservoir, let it run for a while, no problems. I then took it out on the road and it immediately started to overheat. I watched a video this morning and the guy said that the antifreeze MUST go in the hose/neck when filling...not in the reservoir. Can I just fill it through the bleeder valve? Am I doing something wrong? Should the antifreeze be sucked in from the reservoir? Since I can't remove the cap, I can't see in the hose. My next stop will be the thermostat, but I want to know that I've done this properly before moving on.
Again, the cap will not come off. It is as if the cap was formed around the neck with no slots in the neck. I can turn it so that the cap is loose, then turn it back to tighten it. It appears to be intentionally made that way and not defective.
Best,
Brian Wheeler
Dayco Communications Manager
#6
I had that same part break on mine a couple years ago, when I got the new one the cap was on so tight that I had one hell of a time getting it off, and the same getting it back on the first time. I sprayed it with some silicon lube spray around the seal and it made it much easier, but you REALLY have to push down on it to get it to turn.