I recently bought a 2000 durango. I drove this thing an hour and a half home with zero issues other than a pulsing in the brake pedal which I assume to be warped rotors. After about a week I got my first check engine light with a code of 0201(#1 fuel inj. Fault) I reset by disconnecting the battery and the code came back within a day. Rough idle coincided with the code. I did this a couple times with the same result. Finally I decided to not reset and just see what happens. Finally I got a 0301(#1 cyl misfire) in addition to the 0201. The check engine light went out once and it ran fine then returned and remained for a good while. About two weeks ago I started the vehicle late at night (it was cool outside) no check engine light present and remained out for a couple days and ran fine. I was getting low on gas so stopped filled the tank and the check light was on instantly. I rechecked the codes and there was a 1388 in addition to the other two. Could the fuel be related or just coincidence. The three codes remain still and it runs rough but has not stalled or died on me. I don't really see the connection but I've read numerous threads related to these issues. I've also never seen a for sure fix. Am I screwed? Have I bought a lemon?

 

Knowing what engine you have would be helpful. The first thing I'd do is use something (broom handle against your ear and the injector) to listen and see if that injector is clicking.

 

Yea my bad i was just thinking I didn't put the engine, its a 4.7 I did ohm out the injector which read slightly high but the engine was still pretty warm. I also checked the connector(wire harness) which according to the haynes manual should have read 12v with the key on. There was nothing.

 

Is the injector clicking though? I'm not sure what the voltages are supposed to be at it, but if it's activating, just clogged, you don't need to worry about troubleshooting wiring. And I'd rather go by the FSM (links to it in the DIY thread in this section) for wiring rather than a haynes or chilton manual.

 

For free, to diagnose, you could swap the injectors. I'm not sure how tough that is on a 4.7, but it would help you know if it's electrical or mechanical. Thats what I would do first.