your pressure is fine, if its too low an idiot light will come on, if your really worried about it you can install a mechanical gauge like that_guy did and get a true reading, but its probably unnecessary. (i did put one into mine bc the pressure sensors kept failing, i would have 30psi at idle when warmed up also, as high as 90 in the winter when cold)

+1 on finding the oil loss point, that would drive me more nuts than the low pressure.

 

Hey Don, yes this is my next point of concern. I am starting a new thread and what I have done so far with the tune up with photos of each cylinder and plugs.

 

Wondering if you got this issue fixed because my 2000 5.9 just started doing this at about 150k.

 

Seems like its the norm for the 5.9 01. Do check your oil often. I redid the plenum fix on my truck, almost all these trucks have that oil leak there. I run synthetic oil and notice my engine after about 3k burns off at least a quart of oil.

 

I have never trusted the gauges in my 01 Durango with the 360 but not an RT. I wound up buying an aftermarket gauge pod and put in an auto meter oil pressure, water temp and transmission temp gauge.
I "t'd " the after market gauges in so that the original sash gauges all still work too.

 

Why not?

 

I haven't trusted them (especially the oil pressure one) because it has always shown lower than I thought it should.
I have 290k on it, replaced the original engine at 260k, I had had a manual gauge on both the original engine and the replacement engine at different times/and with the reading I got with the manual gauge it proved the original wasn't accurate even though the original doesn't assign any numbers for whatever gauge position.
and now that I have both the original gauge and the aftermarket auto meter gauge hooked up and working, and watch them both in relation to each other my suspicion was right. The original one doesn't always show the same needle position at a given pressure.
When I put the replacement engine in, I first had a drill running the oil pump on an engine stand with a manual gauge and that confirmed my suspicion. Also when connecting a scanner to the truck, at idle it says I have half of the pressure the auto meter says. This was confirmed by my MAC test gauge.

And before someone says "sending unit" I've replaced that at least 3 times during my ownership. Thru the scanner reading is the same. Factory dash gauge reading is the same with any sending unit that has been in place.
The reasons I have replaced them were leaks on 2 and just because I had the engine out the last time.

 

I have the same thing happen with my 2003 Ram 3500 Diesel. I have an auto meter gauge in the a pillar and referencing it against the factory gauge they never read the same. I've noticed that at the same pressure, the factory gauge will read wildly different when the truck is cold versus hot. I suspect my Durango does the same, but to be fair I've never tested that theory. Most automotive gauges that I've seen and dealt with are more just to make the driver feel better. They're not all that accurate. Most coolant temp gauges (but not these older dodges) have a massive temp range where the needle will not move. Once the vehicle is up to 140 or so, the needle will read normal. It won't move up until it reaches 215-220. I've personally seen several from different manufacturers do this same thing. People don't like to see gauges moving, that's my theory on why they do it.

I wish they were all old school. I wanna see accurate gauges, not gauges that make me "feel better"

 

I've always just gone on the idea that gauge at zero is bad, gauge sort of in the middle someplace is good.