P1495 Error, dash lights come on one by one, engine dies, slow crank?
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P1495 Error, dash lights come on one by one, engine dies, slow crank?
I have a 2002 4wD 4.7 Dodge Durango.
My check engine light came on a few months ago... took it to Autozone to get the code ran, they told me it was a P1495 error code... EVAP Leak Detection Pump Solenoid Circuit...said I didn't have to worry about it right away.
Couple of days later, I notice what sounds like some sort of live wire sound near my foot pedals... sounds like a wire is open or poorly connected, making a very loud electrical sound...was afraid for awhile that I was going to get electrocuted by having my feet down there. I had a non-expert check it out and we both realized it was coming from my speakers on my car door (both of which are very near the driver and passenger floor space). Weird.
Couple days later, my "check gages" light comes on. When this happens, my battery meter plummets to 8. Okay... so I contact a mechanic who says the earliest he can see it is in a week. I continue driving to school because I don't have much other choice. My check gages light comes on and off for a couple days more, seems to come on right when I turn my car on but if I warm up my car for ten minutes without driving it goes away, coming back on after about 15 minutes or so of driving sometimes.
On my way back home today, my check gages light comes on... a little while later, my "air bag" light comes on. Okay, that's a new one. I start playing with things as I drive home... turn on my windshield wipers and my heater on as high as they can go and they barely work.
Make it home, park, turn off my engine. I turn it back on and my car won't start anymore. It cranks slowly but doesn't turn on. I can turn my key backwards and my radio will come on after some delay, and I can turn it forward a few clicks (without attempting to start the actual engine) and my interior lights come on perfectly fine, just my engine won't start.
Within the past year I have replaced my starter and my alternator, so those are brand new... not sure what it could be. Maybe my battery? Would a P1495 error cause something like this?
Thoughts?
My check engine light came on a few months ago... took it to Autozone to get the code ran, they told me it was a P1495 error code... EVAP Leak Detection Pump Solenoid Circuit...said I didn't have to worry about it right away.
Couple of days later, I notice what sounds like some sort of live wire sound near my foot pedals... sounds like a wire is open or poorly connected, making a very loud electrical sound...was afraid for awhile that I was going to get electrocuted by having my feet down there. I had a non-expert check it out and we both realized it was coming from my speakers on my car door (both of which are very near the driver and passenger floor space). Weird.
Couple days later, my "check gages" light comes on. When this happens, my battery meter plummets to 8. Okay... so I contact a mechanic who says the earliest he can see it is in a week. I continue driving to school because I don't have much other choice. My check gages light comes on and off for a couple days more, seems to come on right when I turn my car on but if I warm up my car for ten minutes without driving it goes away, coming back on after about 15 minutes or so of driving sometimes.
On my way back home today, my check gages light comes on... a little while later, my "air bag" light comes on. Okay, that's a new one. I start playing with things as I drive home... turn on my windshield wipers and my heater on as high as they can go and they barely work.
Make it home, park, turn off my engine. I turn it back on and my car won't start anymore. It cranks slowly but doesn't turn on. I can turn my key backwards and my radio will come on after some delay, and I can turn it forward a few clicks (without attempting to start the actual engine) and my interior lights come on perfectly fine, just my engine won't start.
Within the past year I have replaced my starter and my alternator, so those are brand new... not sure what it could be. Maybe my battery? Would a P1495 error cause something like this?
Thoughts?
THE ULTI-MOD
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 19,797
Likes: 36
From: Union NJ
the p1495 is unrelated to your current issues.
if you have a voltmeter go check your battery voltage with that instead of the dash gauge it will be more precise anyways. you SHOULD have 12-13 volts with everything off, if you hvae less than that you have a weak battery. (the slow crank and weak electrical accessories screams weak battery, now to figure out how weak and why)
now the battery gauge dropping sounds like a charging issue(however a really bad battery can pull the system voltage down while it attempts to charge), which to me screams alternator, it is ALWAYS possible you got a faulty unit, or that it has failed already, the alternative is the voltage regulator which is unfortunately part of the PCM on these trucks.
low voltage can cause all sorts of electrical gremlins so lets start with that and rule it out before we jump to any other conclusions.
if you have a voltmeter go check your battery voltage with that instead of the dash gauge it will be more precise anyways. you SHOULD have 12-13 volts with everything off, if you hvae less than that you have a weak battery. (the slow crank and weak electrical accessories screams weak battery, now to figure out how weak and why)
now the battery gauge dropping sounds like a charging issue(however a really bad battery can pull the system voltage down while it attempts to charge), which to me screams alternator, it is ALWAYS possible you got a faulty unit, or that it has failed already, the alternative is the voltage regulator which is unfortunately part of the PCM on these trucks.
low voltage can cause all sorts of electrical gremlins so lets start with that and rule it out before we jump to any other conclusions.
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Wanted to respond back to you as well as to provide further insight for those who might also experience this issue.
At first we were a little befuddled. When Autozone tested the battery, the battery read as having very low voltage and being only about 66% charged when connected to the car, but when the battery was disconnected it read as 99% charged and having a healthy voltage. They were unable to test the alternator while it was in my vehicle because the battery had too low of voltage for them to do so. We had to remove the alternator from the vehicle and test it separately.
Now the problem has been fixed; and you were right, it was the alternator. Turns out Autozone had sold me the wrong alternator which may or may not had caused it to fail within a year. I went to another store and they were pretty chill about it. They refunded me some of the money, because I guess I was overcharged too, and gave me the right part (apparently Autozone also has a lifetime warranty on alternators - good to know).
Specifically, it was a diode failure within the alternator, which caused it to drain some of the battery power when the battery was connected to the car but still allowed my vehicle to drive short distances and cause a bunch of unnerving lights to come on. The buzzing noise went away too once we replaced it. Still don't know what that was, though someone suggested it might have just been electrical feedback from my speakers that was for some reason related to the alternator issue.
Thanks for suggesting the alternator! Problem solved.
At first we were a little befuddled. When Autozone tested the battery, the battery read as having very low voltage and being only about 66% charged when connected to the car, but when the battery was disconnected it read as 99% charged and having a healthy voltage. They were unable to test the alternator while it was in my vehicle because the battery had too low of voltage for them to do so. We had to remove the alternator from the vehicle and test it separately.
Now the problem has been fixed; and you were right, it was the alternator. Turns out Autozone had sold me the wrong alternator which may or may not had caused it to fail within a year. I went to another store and they were pretty chill about it. They refunded me some of the money, because I guess I was overcharged too, and gave me the right part (apparently Autozone also has a lifetime warranty on alternators - good to know).
Specifically, it was a diode failure within the alternator, which caused it to drain some of the battery power when the battery was connected to the car but still allowed my vehicle to drive short distances and cause a bunch of unnerving lights to come on. The buzzing noise went away too once we replaced it. Still don't know what that was, though someone suggested it might have just been electrical feedback from my speakers that was for some reason related to the alternator issue.
Thanks for suggesting the alternator! Problem solved.
