I have a 2000 2 wheel drive durango 5.2. I have tried to disarm the security several different ways. My drivers door lock is busted(wont turn either way), i have tried to ground the light green/orange wire under the kick panel, i have tried to lock the doors in sequence and unlock the drivers door to disarm it, i have tried to reset the computer all with no luck. Can anyone tell me how to disable, disarm or disengage the security system permanently? I plan on replacing and fixing the right way in the next few weeks, i just need a vehicle to get to work right now.

 

Pretty much all the indicator lights are controlled by the CTM (that driver kick panel unit). Odd lights usually indicates it's on the way out. No usual corrective things can fix it. You can likely find a used one on eBay for $80+, a pig in a poke. I returned two of those on eBay before finding a working one at a local junk yard. Always get the same part number unit. If you swap it, you'll have to get a dealer to their DRB3 tool to program in your remote key fobs.

 

Im sorry i am new to posting, forgive me for maybe leaving out details or not being specific enough. I understand for the most part what the problem is however, i dont know how to fix it. I only have 1 key, no key fobs and im not even sure its the original key. I bought the truck almost 8 months ago and never have had a problem with just about anything, minor stuff tune ups, new thermostat, junk yard donor rear end until i finish rebuilding the original.however just recently the power locks started engaging on there own. Now the security system is stopping the pulse to the injectors. I would like to disarm the security system in the most inexpesive way possible. If i have to put a new ctm in i will but i would prefer for now to just disarm it. If anyone can provide a wiring schematic for the ctm or knowledge on the subject i would greatly appreciate it

2000 5.2 2x2 100% original(as in never maintained) 290xxx miles.

 

The Vehicle Theft Security System (VTSS) can be turned on/off, but again, only by the dealer with a DRB3 tool. There is no user magic switch.

 

She is finally running after a solid month of troubleshooting problems. The culprit - the rear hatch lock apparently is sticking and would not disarm the system. I managed to jiggle the lock to the point that it disarmed the security system and am now up and running better than ever. Next step is replacing the struts all around along with the upstream o2 sensor and break pads and shoes. If anyone has any recommendations on these procedures i would appreciate the imput.