1st Gen Durango 1998 - 2003 Durango's

01 5.9L r/t Durango awd

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Old Jul 17, 2018 | 08:44 PM
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Ezra Drehobl's Avatar
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Default 01 5.9L r/t Durango awd

Currently, have had some common white smoke upon start up, with also some of what looks like water splatter. Usually calms down after a minute or 2. Has been sitting a couple weeks and is going into the shop this week for a new 46re rebuild (trans) today I started it up and blew excessive white smoke. No blue tint, no black smoke so doesn’t seem to be burning any oil or excess fuel, or oil levers are good and usually stay good. It did this for about 10 minutes. I’ve heard of humidity and drastic temp change (90’s with intense humidity with about 20-30 degree temp change at night) can cause excess water in the cat from condensation that may need to just be heated out (take for a drive clear it up) only has 1st gear so can’t do that. Really hoping to rule out head gaskets, warped cracked etc. although a do-able job in the long run. Engine has only 120k miles. Does run low on coolant often but has a coolant leak (crusty hose at bottom of radiator) but never runs less than half or empty. Had a misfire on cyl #6 months ago but cleared them and it hasn’t come back. Any info on chemical/compression tests would be helpful.
 
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Old Jul 17, 2018 | 10:33 PM
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I'm at the same miles on the same truck. I actually did replace head gaskets a bit ago, but not because they were bad, but because I was doing rocker arm work, buggered one, and bent a valve. Totally mechanic (me) error. The speed shop who did the valve repair on the heads saw that both heads were cracked, said it happens to half of that vintage head. I got new stock replacements. So, you may have cracked heads too. Mine were not causing any problem, but your's may be making a water leak into a cylinder.
 

Last edited by JeeperDon; Jul 18, 2018 at 08:09 AM.
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Old Jul 18, 2018 | 07:41 AM
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Rent a block tester (usually free when you return it).



Also, I had a small HG leak and fixed it without pulling the heads.

https://dodgeforum.com/forum/2nd-gen...ss-4-7l-2.html

https://dodgeforum.com/forum/2nd-gen...t-options.html
 

Last edited by Dodgevity; Jul 18, 2018 at 07:54 AM.
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Old Jul 19, 2018 | 12:10 PM
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You cannot "fix" a headgasket issue with sealant. All that does is cover it up until that fails again. Only way to fix headgaskets properly is to remove the heads, send them to a machine shop for the proper work and then installing them with new gaskets.

Stop leak should be avoided at all costs, it will fail without warning.
 
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Old Jul 19, 2018 | 02:55 PM
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Originally Posted by b1lk1
You cannot "fix" a headgasket issue with sealant. All that does is cover it up until that fails again. Only way to fix headgaskets properly is to remove the heads, send them to a machine shop for the proper work and then installing them with new gaskets.
Tell that to my truck. I've been driving it daily for 3 years since "fixing" it with the K&W. I have no coolant loss. If you know what you're doing, it can be done and without interfering with the heater core or radiator. Not all sealants are the same either. Example, you don't want to use a product that is simply added to your antifreeze. The stuff I used heats up and turns to glass, then you drain out the remainder. Saved me a lot of money as I didn't feel like spending on an almost 300K truck. If it ever leaks again, I'd simply do it again.
 

Last edited by Dodgevity; Jul 19, 2018 at 03:09 PM.
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Old Jul 19, 2018 | 04:44 PM
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How long a kludge fix holds together does not make it a proper fix. I am glad it has worked for you, I am simply stating that I only ever used stuff like that when I worked as a used car dealer mechanic. They love that stuff.

I would never put that in my motor under and circumstances. I do have the luxury of having both the ability and tools to replace headgaskets on any engine. I never do bandaid fixes on my personal vehicles.

Again, I'm not saying you did anything right or wrong, I just don't agree with you.
 
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Old Jul 20, 2018 | 04:07 PM
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Originally Posted by b1lk1
Again, I'm not saying you did anything right or wrong, I just don't agree with you.
b1lk1, I completely understand your opposition to using this stuff. I've always hated the thought of any kind of stop leak in anything - this mechanic in a bottle crap. I stated as much in my threads, so I take zero offence. I got the truck super-cheap and didn't feel like putting that much money into an almost 300K engine. Had I pulled off the head, it would've been a sin to not replace the 3 timing chains as wells as the lifters, etc. Furthermore, I didn't know if I'd end up finding something different, like a cracked block, which this stuff would fix too. So maybe you can see where my mind was at. I was more than pleasantly surprised by the results. In all, the fix cost be around $40 (woulda been $20, but had to use two bottles to overcome the learning curve).

Originally Posted by b1lk1
I would never put that in my motor under and circumstances.
If you've been following the manual, in a way, you already have. Pre 2013, Mopar coolant has silicates, to help with those non-perfect tolerances. The main ingredient in this K&W stuff is sodium silicate (at a higher dosage and mixed with copper flakes). I later found out that a lot of rebuilders use it after resurfacing heads for that final seal. ( I believe that was my issue, BTW - not using silicated coolant.)
http://www.allpar.com/fix/cracks.html
"Genuine MOPAR antifreeze, recommended in Chrysler owners manuals, contain a small amount of sodium silicate to stop internal leaks as they develop. Hence, leaking head gaskets and cracked heads are usually only a problem if you haven't been using genuine MOPAR antifreeze as Chrysler recommends."

Originally Posted by b1lk1
How long a kludge fix holds together does not make it a proper fix.
Well, I'd consider this a permanent fix. After all, it says so right on the bottle. Seriously though, it's the only vehicle I've had for years now and I'd drive it from here to California with no hesitation. As far as I'm concerned, it's fixed! I could still do the HG today if I needed to...but I don't.

PS: I've got a garage full of tools and have the ability but I think I chose the smarter route. $40 with solid results... no ill effects. I'm getting Japanese-like reliability out of this truck for years and I sit in high ATL traffic running AC everyday or running 80-90 on the highway.
 

Last edited by Dodgevity; Jul 20, 2018 at 04:14 PM.
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