Hi GUys, I'm new here. Ive got a 99 durangp and just installed a class 3 hitch. I need to install a flat 4 wireing harness for my snowmobile trailer.

I grabbed one of those tail light plug in kits from walmart, but its for a dakota, I figured it would work, but I cant locate the tail light connections.

Will this work, or is there a kit specifically made for the durango?


Thanks

You can get a harness kit from the Dodge Dealer that has the correct connecters to plug into your tail lamp harness. All you have to do is remove your left tail lamp assembly, unplug the harness from the lamp and install your trailer harness, then route the trailer connector end down through the body and over to your hitch area.

I got one of those 4 flat connectors and pulled the left rear tailight assmbly, TEST ALL CONNECTIONS with your trailer connected, before you put the taillight assmbly back into the body. I ended up with turn signals crossed and the lights didn't work right....
I bought another kit, because I wired it correctly per the directions, but the the harness was misspackaged, so the second one was the right one with the right directions.... sometimes going to the dealer for minor purchases will save time, I learned my lesson.

Hoppy(Hopkins Products) and Valley Hitch make harnesses also.

Chump-
Here is the low down on my dilema: (be prepared to grab a drink, this is going to be long)

The factory harness arrived, (the part no. I used was right), ending in 721 I believe, is the perfect set up for the Durango with out the trailer tow package. The harness comes with relays wired in the loom, and you simply unplug each tailight, plug in the harness to both sides (left and right), then there is a long part of the harness where it runs under the truck to the front of the truck up into the engine bay. There is only 3 wires that run from the rear bumper up to the engine bay, one is power, the other is the blue trailer brake wire, and one is a short wire that dead ends into a 20 amp fuse for the power wire. Pretty simple, and all connections have the appropriate connectors with the exception of the blue wire that gets fished through the firewall.
The connections on the harness simply go the power distribution block (underhood fuse box- drivers side near the battery), and the only "non-plug in" part of the whole "plug N play" harness is the single blue wire that you have to fish through a factory grommet in the firewall, and down into the footwell area for the electric brake controller. (that's the trigger wire for trailers with electric brakes)

I bought the factory harness from my local Dodge Dealer, Norris Dodge in Lodi, Ohio. The parts manager is a buddy of sorts, and Greg Brezina took the time to look over the directions that came with the harness (very simple and plenty of illustrations), and make sure I was happy. I would highly reccomend calling Greg if any one out there needs a factory harness for your Durango and you don't have the factory tow package. (800) 709-2277 is Greg's number..... gbrezina@norrischrysler.com - Email Address
I am very satisfied, and paid 95.00 for the complete harness, not bad in my opinion. I don't drive any American cars, so I am reluctant to trust my Dodge, but I needed a tow vehicle, and the Durango suits my needs. So for a skeptic like me, I am very very very satisfied for my 95 bucks.

Ok, one other question I had in my previous posts, is this:
Is the Durango pre-wired to the underside of the dash for the trailer tow package to be added at a later time other than when the truck is built on the assembly line, the answer is NO, it is not. With the factory harness I ordered (98-00 models), there is no need for a heavy duty flasher either. EVERYTHING is included in the harness and Dodge wraps it up with tape and all you have to do is follow the directions and plug it in where they tell you to. I thought maybe Dodge would have prewired under the dash for the "aftermarket" harness or the factory harness, turns out, nothing goes inside the cabin of the truck but one wire, so no wonder I could find anything to plug into. I also learned that if you do get the "assembly line trailer tow package" there will be a four wire plug under your dash to allow an aftermarket electric brake controller to plug into it, with out splicing wires.

I am also installing a brake controller for my race car trailer (flat bed). I studied and studied and decided on the top of the line unit from Tekonsha products, the Prodigy model. I bought it from RVWholesalers.com in Western Ohio, it was also 95.00. Most prices I saw were in the 120 + range, including the "member" price from those so called RV worlds type places.

Now, the other dilema I tried to solve before getting parts in hand is this:
The Prodigy brake controller comes with a "basic" 4 wire harness. One end plugs in the brake controller, the other end is bare wires w/o a plug. Tekonsha offers a " made for your vehicle" plug on the other end, but ONLY if you have the factory(aka assembly line) tow package, which I did not have. ( oh yeah, it's 20 bucks from Tekonsha .) I'll wire 4 wires for 20 bucks in savings.
I looked under the dash for a square 4 wire plug to plug into for the brake controller only, but did not find one. So, if your Durango did not come fully wired for the trailer tow package, you won't have a 4 wire plug under the dash, NOR on the factory built harness I purchased over the counter at the dealer. The other 3 wires are for power, ground, and brake actuation switch (near the pedal). These will all need hardwired in. ( The power wire has to go to a " automatic resetable" 20A (1-2 axles) or a 30A circut breaker supply for 3-4 axle trailers.) Wiring Schmatic is here: Tekonsha's Prodigy Wiring Diagram

Sorry to be so long winded but this is the detailed type of post I was hoping to find when I did my research because I couldn't find clear cut answers from anybody on the web, dealership, nor other Durango owners I know personally. All I got was a 225.00 quote from the local guy with a brake controller I didn't choose and he told me it had to all be hardwired in..... B.S. I spent less money than 225, and I GOT TO CHOOSE THE BEST BRAKE CONTROLLER on the market, and I know how it gets wired in... plus I get to write this long *** post and help others who are "diy" guys/gals.

With all that being said (fingers are getting tired), the only problem I have yet to solve, is at the top of the brake pedal there is a brake switch, and there is a 6 wire flat connector. The Prodigy directions tell you to connect one of the four wires off the back of the controller to a "cold switched" wire on the brake pedal connection. Does anyone know what color of wire I am looking for in the 6 wires to get a cold wire? The wire will go hot when the brake pedal is depressed, I suppose if I probe with my "hot wire" ice pick type light up tool, I can find a wire that will go hot when I push on the pedal, but is it going to effect the brakes? I just want to close the chapter on this book by letting others know which wire to tap into for the brake controller....

Untill I get the right wire color, I look forward to anyone's reply and I greatly appreciate everyones help, especially your Chump.

I have pics of the harness if anyone is interested in seeing it first hand, drop me an email: Rhm5@zoominternet.net
I sincerely hope this post and my questions have helped someone out there, maybe in the future someone will uncover this post and it will help them save money like I did, plus the satisfaction of doing the job myself.

Chris Stiffler
Medina, Ohio
Honda Sports Car builder and road racing champion!

From what I see, the Dak and Dur are 2 different kits. Can't tell you the diffrence, but the part numbers appear to different.
Try Autozone for a kit #42215(Hoppy Brand) or see if Wal-mart has this one?

Dodge makes a 4 flat wire kit, call my buddy Greg at the number above. The 4 flat works just like the 7 round, except you only have tap into each tail light and not run any wires to the engine bay for trailer brakes.

This the factory part no.'s you'll want to read up on....
Factory Hitches and wiring part no.'s

I would go with factory, simple to plug in, no splicing.

chris