I replaced my resistor and it works! I had no flow before. I noticed the old resistor was made in Mexico, the new one is from Slovenia. Didn't know they made anything useful in Slovenia.

 

I just replaced my resistor a month ago, but felt the need to comment on your Slovenia comment...

Slovenia is a beautiful and clean country. I have been there several times and it is a paradise. Gorenje is based from Slovenia and is like one of the top "G.E." like companies in Europe.
I would love to retire in a such a beautiful peaceful place. A bonus is that since it's so small and they have their own language that no one no where else speaks, they all speak English. Anyone about 40yrs old and younger grew up watching the same T.V. shows as you and I in English.Okay. so that was off topic, but hopefully educational! Oh, and the people there are gorgeous, and the spas and on and on...

This needed a bump anywho. I'm sure A LOT of people have this EASY to fix problem.
My new problem is that my husband damn near stripped my **** when he was mad that it wasn't working. He kept jerking it around. Now it moves a little too freely...[/align]

 

Right on the money!!!
Thank You for this posting it was most helpful, especially since I did not know a resistor pack existed.

 

Having the issue of front A/C not blowing. Fuses are good, but no power to the resistor and no power to the switch as well. Any help?

 

I would check starting from the fuse block to make sure you got power using a voltmeter. Then start testing from there until you find the break.

 

I'm posting this for my husband, as he is at work right now. But this it's what's going on now. Tried replacing the ingnition switch, nothing, tried replacing the resistor, still nothing. Used a voltmeter to find no power at the resistor and no power to the switch and the fuses are good. Where else should he check for power? I don't know if he knows already, but I thought I would ask. What else could be the issue? Thanks for the help!

 

Themoparguy,

Have your husband use a voltmeter and start from the fuseblock to test for power and work his way to the switch, then the resistor, then blower. The break is somewhere between the fuseblock and the resistor.

 

this is the order of componets from the power ditribution center (hot all the time), 40a fuse, ignition switch run position, blower motor (load), resistor (load for low, med 1, med 2), blower switch, ground. The switch is on the negative side of load. No relay is used.

So with a good fuse and the key in the on position, blower switch off, you should have 12vbetween the high terminal (blk/tan wire) on the blower switch and a known good ground.

if you have voltage with the key on the problem is on the ground side of the switchor the switch it self. If you have no voltage then I'm going to step you backward thru the circuit until we find voltage. at anytime you find voltage stop, you found your problem.

check voltage at the blk/tan wire at the resistor to ground. (- side of resistor)
then voltage at the dk blue/yellowwire at the resistor to ground. (+ side of resistor)
then voltage at the dk blue/yellow wire at the motor to ground. (- side of motor)
then voltage at the dk green wire at the blower motorto ground. (+ side of motor)
then voltage at the dk green wire at the ignition switch to ground, you should have found voltage by this step or your truck would not run anyway.

ignition must be on for these test. any black wire is not a known good ground unless you test for continuity to neg battery. neg battery terminal or engine block is a known good ground.

let me know how it goes.