Your Durango Impressions Please
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Joined: Nov 2004
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RE: Your Durango Impressions Please
ORIGINAL: rcs426
all i can say is that my 98 5.2 has 173465 miles on it and i just had the dif rebuilt limited slip wore out . treat it right and it will treat you right
all i can say is that my 98 5.2 has 173465 miles on it and i just had the dif rebuilt limited slip wore out . treat it right and it will treat you right
RE: Your Durango Impressions Please
I have a 2000 Durango R/T and it is still in near mint condition given its 62k on the meter.
The only major problems I had was the governor actuator switches went out which caused my tranny to go to limp mode and cannot shift out of first gear. This issue caused my Check engine light to come on. Issue was covered from my extended warranty. Also, my heater core went out at 44k and was not covered under extended warranty! Obviously I did not purchase their premo extended warranty which would have covered the core.
Dealer core: $149 with 3yr warranty. Researched and found dealer OEM part was much higher grade quality than aftermarket cores costing less (avg - $89-$110 and with only a one year warranty). (Tip: Make sure you visually inspect the heater core you buy from the parts house before the dealer or outside mechanic install it. I was lucky enough to visually inspect it and the first 2 cores off the shelf was crap. One appeared to be used, the other had rust on the core. Third core off the shelf was brand spanking new!!!). I had a personal mechanic that is also a close friend of mine install it for me. Be prepared to pay the money for labor! At least a 8 hour labor process to tear down the steering column assembly and the entire dash to get access to the heater/AC core housing. I paid him $400 when he only asked for $300. I assisted him in replacing this just for the sheer experience and I tell ya, it was not fun.
Minor issues:
Throttle Position sensor - Fixed my engine surge problem. Especially when using cruise control. $39 part and 5 minute self install.
Transmission output sensor and rear speed sensor - Changed both of these out when under full throttle, tranny will completely slip between gear changes causing my engine to nail its redline! Thank god for built in rev limiter! Transmission output sensor ran $25 and the rear speed sensor ran $50 bucks and this is DEALER part only for the 2000 models. Not so easy to install as it is underneath the SUV and the rear speed sensor on the axle is a pain when you are trying to access it from underneath.
All 4 OEM shocks changed to Monroe Reflex lifetime warranty shocks at 40k.
Changed OEM tires to BF Goodrich Comp T/A's H rated tires at 40k
Changed OEM front light bulbs to Sylvania Silver stars.
Installed aftermarket LeBra with bug screen. (Bug screen is a huge help and prevents small rocks/pebbles from damaging your exposed A/C condenser coil!)
Mandatory Ball joint recalled on my 4x4 model.
That's it. Other than this, I always do a extreme use maintenance even tho I do not extremely use it.
6k synthetic oil changes.
12k-15k plugs, wires, cap, rotor changes.
20k tranny fluid changes.
20k coolant flush and changes.
60k transfer case and axle fluid changes.
10k air filter cleanup. (I have K&N OEM replacement filter)
The only major problems I had was the governor actuator switches went out which caused my tranny to go to limp mode and cannot shift out of first gear. This issue caused my Check engine light to come on. Issue was covered from my extended warranty. Also, my heater core went out at 44k and was not covered under extended warranty! Obviously I did not purchase their premo extended warranty which would have covered the core.
Dealer core: $149 with 3yr warranty. Researched and found dealer OEM part was much higher grade quality than aftermarket cores costing less (avg - $89-$110 and with only a one year warranty). (Tip: Make sure you visually inspect the heater core you buy from the parts house before the dealer or outside mechanic install it. I was lucky enough to visually inspect it and the first 2 cores off the shelf was crap. One appeared to be used, the other had rust on the core. Third core off the shelf was brand spanking new!!!). I had a personal mechanic that is also a close friend of mine install it for me. Be prepared to pay the money for labor! At least a 8 hour labor process to tear down the steering column assembly and the entire dash to get access to the heater/AC core housing. I paid him $400 when he only asked for $300. I assisted him in replacing this just for the sheer experience and I tell ya, it was not fun.
Minor issues:
Throttle Position sensor - Fixed my engine surge problem. Especially when using cruise control. $39 part and 5 minute self install.
Transmission output sensor and rear speed sensor - Changed both of these out when under full throttle, tranny will completely slip between gear changes causing my engine to nail its redline! Thank god for built in rev limiter! Transmission output sensor ran $25 and the rear speed sensor ran $50 bucks and this is DEALER part only for the 2000 models. Not so easy to install as it is underneath the SUV and the rear speed sensor on the axle is a pain when you are trying to access it from underneath.
All 4 OEM shocks changed to Monroe Reflex lifetime warranty shocks at 40k.
Changed OEM tires to BF Goodrich Comp T/A's H rated tires at 40k
Changed OEM front light bulbs to Sylvania Silver stars.
Installed aftermarket LeBra with bug screen. (Bug screen is a huge help and prevents small rocks/pebbles from damaging your exposed A/C condenser coil!)
Mandatory Ball joint recalled on my 4x4 model.
That's it. Other than this, I always do a extreme use maintenance even tho I do not extremely use it.
6k synthetic oil changes.
12k-15k plugs, wires, cap, rotor changes.
20k tranny fluid changes.
20k coolant flush and changes.
60k transfer case and axle fluid changes.
10k air filter cleanup. (I have K&N OEM replacement filter)
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 32
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RE: Your Durango Impressions Please
Got a 1999 Durango with 189000 miles on it we have yet to have one problem with it yet. Most of the miles have been highway but still no problems minus crappy gas milage its good for my daily driver anyway and it trailors the weekend car everywhere i need to go!
RE: Your Durango Impressions Please
ORIGINAL: GammaFord
Just bought an '01 Durango sport 4x4. It has the 4.7L V8 with the "engine sludge" problem. Made me hesitant to begin with so I called a couple of Dodge dealers in town to talk to their mechanics. The mecahnics told me this: When you're looking at the truck you want make sure the engine is cold and take off the cap to the oil resevoir. Run your finger around the top of the resevoir tube. You'll get a little oil on your finger which is normal. If it's a really dark black and more solid than regular oil the engine has probably developed the sludge problem already. They then told me regular oil changes will prevent the problem. This I found out was not quite so. Talked to the fluid expert at my mechanic's shop and he said Toyota had / has a similar problem with their V6s in the 4Runners. The real trick is a complete engine oil flush once a year in addition to regular oil changes. Also, my mechanic adds a chemical called MOA which helps eliminate oil build up. Anyway, all this set my mind at ease about the engine and so we bought the truck and I couldn't be happier.
The ride is good for such a large vehicle. It's super quiet on the highway with great pick-up when needed. Just went on a long road trip this weekend and put about 600 miles on the truck and enjoyed every minute. Got the better part of about 20 - 21 mpg on the highway and I'm averaging around 14 in the city (depending on how hard I drive it). It may not be a mercedes but for my money I can't find a better truck!
Just bought an '01 Durango sport 4x4. It has the 4.7L V8 with the "engine sludge" problem. Made me hesitant to begin with so I called a couple of Dodge dealers in town to talk to their mechanics. The mecahnics told me this: When you're looking at the truck you want make sure the engine is cold and take off the cap to the oil resevoir. Run your finger around the top of the resevoir tube. You'll get a little oil on your finger which is normal. If it's a really dark black and more solid than regular oil the engine has probably developed the sludge problem already. They then told me regular oil changes will prevent the problem. This I found out was not quite so. Talked to the fluid expert at my mechanic's shop and he said Toyota had / has a similar problem with their V6s in the 4Runners. The real trick is a complete engine oil flush once a year in addition to regular oil changes. Also, my mechanic adds a chemical called MOA which helps eliminate oil build up. Anyway, all this set my mind at ease about the engine and so we bought the truck and I couldn't be happier.
The ride is good for such a large vehicle. It's super quiet on the highway with great pick-up when needed. Just went on a long road trip this weekend and put about 600 miles on the truck and enjoyed every minute. Got the better part of about 20 - 21 mpg on the highway and I'm averaging around 14 in the city (depending on how hard I drive it). It may not be a mercedes but for my money I can't find a better truck!
Veteran
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 276
Likes: 0
From: Arizona
RE: Your Durango Impressions Please
ORIGINAL: Last Of The R/Ts
A/C switch or something that has to do with it. I haven't gotten a chance to drop it at the dealer so I do not know as of now what it may be. The A/C works with the switch turned up to full blast but any setting less than that and it acts as if it is turned off all together, blower and all.
A/C switch or something that has to do with it. I haven't gotten a chance to drop it at the dealer so I do not know as of now what it may be. The A/C works with the switch turned up to full blast but any setting less than that and it acts as if it is turned off all together, blower and all.
Problem solved.. Many folks have said that the resistor pack is only for low-medium fan speeds. Again I had NO FAN at ANY fan settings including HIGH... After pulling dash, and shorting fan switch to HIGH position and shorting the appropriate wire from the fan switch connector at the relay pack to black wire at the fan did it work. I measured the resistor pack for the FULL on position and it measured ~ 300ohms.. After extensive checking of all fuses and swapping same type relays in the engine compartment fuse box beforehand, It finally worked after I went to the dealer and installed a New Resistor Pack. It seems that the orig and new resistor pack has a shorting thru connection to the fan as I had shorted myself.. I had never read anybody mention that the resistor pack had any effect on the FULL Fan On position, but apparently it does.. For future reference.. check the fuses, swap the relays, then replace the resistor pack..Cost me a total of $10.02, and a few beverages after the fix.. It also seems that the blower seems louder and forces more air..I am kinda thinking the original resistor pack had a few ohms resistance at FULL setting as it never forced air as it does now..Even the setting below max seems stronger..
For future reference,, the green wire at the fan blower will measure +12 to grd as the Black wire does when the ignition is set to run.. The fan switch connects the low side, or ground to the fan through the resistor pack as measured at the black wire at the fan as anyone can see those wires under the passenger side near the door..
