a/c not ice cold
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a/c not ice cold
my 2000 durango a/c takes a long time to cool the car down. i had it checked and my mechanic said it is at the correct pressure . it is gold in color and has gold cloth interior. i'm wondering if that is part of the problem. it is really super hot inside after sitting out inthe sunall day.i use a windshield reflector that helps but it is still very hot inside the car. it has the rear air set up but it doesn't seem any better with it on.
any suggestions that might help?
any suggestions that might help?
RE: a/c not ice cold
I had a similar issue with mine. I have the two tone dark gray interior. A/C is running correct pressure and such and this is what I had to do to make a big change to get it to quickly chill the interior.
1. Buy a dashmat for your dash. This will preserve the life of your dash as well as preventing quick heat building caused by the dash being too hot. Also well help keep your cabin cool when you are driving on the roads and you can set your A/C at a lowe speed setting.
2. Bypass your heater core by purchasing a hose coupler and some rubber plugs to plug your core after you bypassed the hoses. After I got my heater core replaced, and the mechanic re-installed the core and dash and all, my A/C temperature dropped by as much as 15 degrees. From this point I knew I was losing alot of cooling because of the heater core still flowing hot anti-freeze. Must be the baffle door or something that may have been slightly out of alignment causing hot air from the heater core to mix with the A/C. One thing to try is run your air on vent mode which does not use A/C, if the air coming out the vents is much warmer than ambient air temperature, it will tell you that the baffle door is not shutting tightly from the heater core or possibly the A/C-heater assembling is not well insulated. When I bypassed my heater core when it started leaking, the A/C was very cold. Right now, I do not need to run my A/C higher than 2nd (speed 1-4) speed setting to maintain cool temps.
3. Another thing to look for is the insulation rubber block that is next to your incoming air inlet just below the windshield wipers. My rubber insulation actuall came off and almost fell off! So alot of hot air from the engine compartment was being sucked in by the A/C system. I bought some silicone glue and glued the rubber block back in place.
1. Buy a dashmat for your dash. This will preserve the life of your dash as well as preventing quick heat building caused by the dash being too hot. Also well help keep your cabin cool when you are driving on the roads and you can set your A/C at a lowe speed setting.
2. Bypass your heater core by purchasing a hose coupler and some rubber plugs to plug your core after you bypassed the hoses. After I got my heater core replaced, and the mechanic re-installed the core and dash and all, my A/C temperature dropped by as much as 15 degrees. From this point I knew I was losing alot of cooling because of the heater core still flowing hot anti-freeze. Must be the baffle door or something that may have been slightly out of alignment causing hot air from the heater core to mix with the A/C. One thing to try is run your air on vent mode which does not use A/C, if the air coming out the vents is much warmer than ambient air temperature, it will tell you that the baffle door is not shutting tightly from the heater core or possibly the A/C-heater assembling is not well insulated. When I bypassed my heater core when it started leaking, the A/C was very cold. Right now, I do not need to run my A/C higher than 2nd (speed 1-4) speed setting to maintain cool temps.
3. Another thing to look for is the insulation rubber block that is next to your incoming air inlet just below the windshield wipers. My rubber insulation actuall came off and almost fell off! So alot of hot air from the engine compartment was being sucked in by the A/C system. I bought some silicone glue and glued the rubber block back in place.
