93 Intrepid won't start hot in 90+ weather
Thread Starter
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 4
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93 Intrepid won't start hot in 90+ weather
I've got a 93 intrepid with about 106K miles. I believe it's got the smaller of the two engines
available that year.
Please no flames for not being more specific, I'm new here.
The past few days in the 90-plus F weather we've had in the Detroit area, the car will not restart if the engine stops after driving 20 minutes or more on the freeway (OK, it's in the left lane of I-696 for those of you who know what that entails). After leaving it to cool off long enough, it starts and runs normally.
Monday it bogged and stalled when I pulled to a stop in a left turn lane, low RPM lugging against the brake in drive. Pushed it into a parking spot along my street and went back after supper. It fired right up.
Tuesday I stopped at the store to pick up a can of badly needed R134 and came out maybe 10 min later and it would not fire. Walked to the gym and came back after maybe 90 min and it fired right up.
Today it bogged and stalled while slowing to pull off I-696 onto the M53 exit ramp. Sorry, that was me. The MDOT wrecker spotted me and gave me a tow home. I haven't tried it yet tonight but don't expect any difference.
When trying to restart it hot, the starter cranks the engine at a good high speed but the engine does not fire. It doesn't bog under accel like the motor is fuel starved. When you start it cold, you'd never know it had a problem.
I haven't yet checked for spark under this circumstance and I don't know how to check for fuel on a TPI engine. I never thought I would wish for a Thermoquad.
I really haven't tri[sm=icon_flaming.gif]ed anything yet. What is the first thing I should check?
available that year.
Please no flames for not being more specific, I'm new here.
The past few days in the 90-plus F weather we've had in the Detroit area, the car will not restart if the engine stops after driving 20 minutes or more on the freeway (OK, it's in the left lane of I-696 for those of you who know what that entails). After leaving it to cool off long enough, it starts and runs normally.
Monday it bogged and stalled when I pulled to a stop in a left turn lane, low RPM lugging against the brake in drive. Pushed it into a parking spot along my street and went back after supper. It fired right up.
Tuesday I stopped at the store to pick up a can of badly needed R134 and came out maybe 10 min later and it would not fire. Walked to the gym and came back after maybe 90 min and it fired right up.
Today it bogged and stalled while slowing to pull off I-696 onto the M53 exit ramp. Sorry, that was me. The MDOT wrecker spotted me and gave me a tow home. I haven't tried it yet tonight but don't expect any difference.
When trying to restart it hot, the starter cranks the engine at a good high speed but the engine does not fire. It doesn't bog under accel like the motor is fuel starved. When you start it cold, you'd never know it had a problem.
I haven't yet checked for spark under this circumstance and I don't know how to check for fuel on a TPI engine. I never thought I would wish for a Thermoquad.
I really haven't tri[sm=icon_flaming.gif]ed anything yet. What is the first thing I should check?
Thread Starter
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 4
Likes: 0
From:
RE: 93 Intrepid won't start hot in 90+ weather
The motor is the 3.3 to be specific.
Well I changed the plugs, wires, PCV valve and air filter, and I fed a bottle of Techron into the tank. After some of the cleaner has a chance to run through, I'll change the fuel filter also. But yesterday she stalled again on the way home when I stopped for a light. Once again this was after 20+ min of heavy freeway running in hot weather.
This time I noticed that the vacuum line from the plenum to a device on the driver's-side fuel rail was dry-rotted. I replaced this line. I described it by phone to my brother in law who is a mechanic. He says it sounds like it sounds like I was describing the fuel pressure regulator, and loss of vacuum there may promote vapor lock. Granted he works at a Ford dealership and isn't specifically familiar with the Dodge 3.3L, but when I described the location of the line and its connection, he identified it immediately.
Could this be it? Is that all it would take to cause this problem? A quarter worth of rubber tubing?
As long as I'm writing...
While changing the plugs, I also noticed a split on the breather hose between the passenger side valve cover up to the intake. The split was right where it fits over the nipple on the valve cover so for the time being I cut it short and pressed it back over the nipple. Is it necessary to get a formed hose with all th eelbows in it, or could I just use a straight piece the same diameter hose? Same for the hose to the PCV - formed required or is straight OK?
Well I changed the plugs, wires, PCV valve and air filter, and I fed a bottle of Techron into the tank. After some of the cleaner has a chance to run through, I'll change the fuel filter also. But yesterday she stalled again on the way home when I stopped for a light. Once again this was after 20+ min of heavy freeway running in hot weather.
This time I noticed that the vacuum line from the plenum to a device on the driver's-side fuel rail was dry-rotted. I replaced this line. I described it by phone to my brother in law who is a mechanic. He says it sounds like it sounds like I was describing the fuel pressure regulator, and loss of vacuum there may promote vapor lock. Granted he works at a Ford dealership and isn't specifically familiar with the Dodge 3.3L, but when I described the location of the line and its connection, he identified it immediately.
Could this be it? Is that all it would take to cause this problem? A quarter worth of rubber tubing?
As long as I'm writing...
While changing the plugs, I also noticed a split on the breather hose between the passenger side valve cover up to the intake. The split was right where it fits over the nipple on the valve cover so for the time being I cut it short and pressed it back over the nipple. Is it necessary to get a formed hose with all th eelbows in it, or could I just use a straight piece the same diameter hose? Same for the hose to the PCV - formed required or is straight OK?
