Ok I have a 1994 Chrysler Concorde. It has the 3.3 engine in it. Well I'll be driving the car like normal but its like the motor surges when im going down the road. And lately its been dieing alot too. I replaced the spark plugs and the spark plug wires. But I still have the problem [:@] I have heard from some people that I should check the Ignition Control Module, but i have NO idea where it is located. Can somebody please help me?! It would be greatly apprectiated. Whether you just told me where the ICM is or if you told me some other ideas of what the problem could be. Thanks Sooo Much!

 

The coil its the "thing" with the wires going to it (from the spark plugs). Do you have a check engine light? Also please note what ever other problems you notice.

 

Sometimes I get a check engine light but I thought it could have been from my exhaust (customized dual exhaust). Also i notice when the motor dies, the cruise control light comes on. But the weird part is its only the motor that shuts down, everything else still works (the radio, a/c, fuzzbuster, ect..) Sometimes the motor will start back up right away, but then again other times it takes like 10 minutes or so to get it started.


Also I had taken my car in to our auto class at school to see what the problem was.. We hooked a computer up to it and it said that the car was running lean. Then we checked the spark plug wires to see how much volts were running through them. We noticed that they all ran about the same except for one of them was bouncing all around. Most of them said about 11-12, and i think it was cylinder 5 that was runnning all over the place. from like 4-13 or something like that..

 

lots could be going on, but first, check what codes you are getting with a scan tool. Your school should have one in the auto shop class. If not take a trip to autozone or the like and they can read the codes for free. Make sure to write them all down. BTW I am new to the site and while I was poking around I found a link in the second gen area to a repair manual. Many items are still the same. I own my first gen manual (purchased it from Dodge 1800 # a few years ago for about $100). If you plan to keep the car & do your own repairs, it's a wise investment.
PS I miss-read your original post and refered you to the coil pack, not the ignition control mod. (but you may have a bad coil pack causing a weak spark. Here is a link to the second gen manual...
https://dodgeforum.com/m_467728/tm.htm
another good link (for the engine codes)
https://dodgeforum.com/m_300381/tm.htm
PPS, I had a similar problem in the past and it was due to the MAP sensor sticking. It can be disconnected for T/S'ing purposes (the car will go into a "limp home" mode and set the value to a default.

 

Thanks Man. Ill See What Come Up With, And Ill Let You Know How It All Turns Out. Thanks A Million

 

Hey Kurt, So today in my auto class i took the car in and found the MAP sensor. I took it off and all and yeah.. But im just wonering what all am i supposed to do. Do you want me to leave it off? Do i put it back on? How do i tell if it is bad? More info please..

 

Well first of all, did you have any codes? Maybe a Baro fail ECT? If no fails are present and you wanted to try the "cheep T/s'ing" I had mentioned, don't remove it, only disconnect the ele. connector! If you remove it, being it screws directly into the intake manifold,, you will cause a vacuum leak. If the computer doesn't "see it", (because you unplugged it) it will use a default value (an average) to make its timing and fuel mixture calibrations. On the other hand, if you have a scan tool with monitoring ability, you can plug it in and take the car for a ride (with an assistant to monitor, or it would be unsafe to drive). You can watch the value real time and as the engine reves, you should see a smooth variation from the sensor. Of course all of this goes back to the original question, are you getting any faults. It makes the t/s process much easier (sometimes!).
Kurt

 

Well Kurt. I got my fault codes.. they are... 11 12 14 24 51
If you figure anything out let me know. Thanks for the help bud.

 

Ok, here goes...
P0011 CAMshaft possition actuator A-bank 1 timing over-advanced
P0012 CAMshaft possition actuator A-bank 1 timing over-retard
P0014 CAMshaft possition actuator B-bank 1 timing over-advanced
P0024 CAMshaft possition actuator B-bank 2 timing over-advanced
P0051 HO2S Bank 2 sensor bank 1 Heater circuit low


OPERATION
The camshaft position sensor provides cylinder identification to the Powertrain Control Module (PCM). The sensor generates pulses as groups of notches on the camshaft sprocket pass underneath it. The PCM keeps track of crankshaft rotation and identifies each cylinder by the pulses generated by the notches on the camshaft sprocket. Crankshaft pulses follow each group of camshaft pulses. When metal aligns with the sensor, voltage goes low (less than 0.3 volts). When a notch aligns with the sensor, voltage spikes high (5.0 volts). As a group of notches pass under the sensor, the voltage switches from low (metal) to high (notch) then back to low. The number of notches determine the amount of pulses. If available, an oscilloscope or DRBIIIt PEP Module can display the square wave patterns of each timing event.

OPERATION
Engine speed and crankshaft position are provided through the crankshaft position sensor. The sensor generates pulses that are the input sent to the powertrain control module (PCM). The PCM interprets the sensor input to determine the crankshaft position.
The PCM then uses this position, along with other inputs, to determine injector sequence and ignition timing. The crankshaft position sensor detects slots cut into the transmission driveplate extension. Once the Powertrain Control Module (PCM) senses the last slot, it determines which piston will be next at TDC from the camshaft position sensor input. It may take the PCM one engine revolution to determine crankshaft position.



In a nutshell you have a timing issue. How many miles does this car have and have you ever changed the timing belt? You may have slipped a notch or two. This could be bad if the belt finally breaks or stripps further causing bent valves, and holes in your pistons ect. Other than that you could have a bad CAM sensor (and or assoicated wires), a bad Crank sensor or PCM.

As for the code 51, a bad heated O2 sensor (but not an error from your custom exhaust).

I hope this helps
Kurt

PS the operation sections are just generic info (not for your specific car as I do not have your shop manual) just to give you an idea.

 

Thanks A Millon Kurt. I'll check into all that and see what i come up with and let you know the ending result. But thanks a ton!