Oil in spark plugs, water pump out, etc.
#11
#12
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As I could see, this seems to be a lot the same with my brother’s current problem on spark plugs. I guess the same concept applies with Mercedes right? He was actually looking forward on just replacing the piece of Mercedes Benz Spark Plug as it might cause worse with the oil. But I thought it not something serious as he thought it is. So, I got to search some infos here. And if this thread applies, then maybe it’s just Valve Cover Gasket and Plug Tube replacement. Correct me if I’m wrong.
#13
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Well, I decided last nite that I was going to take the head off. So, as I was starting to do it today, I decided that I was just going to pull the entire engine. It looks as though the rear main seal is leaking, and it will just make every much easier to check and replace. So, basically does anyone have any tips/hints/suggestions before I do this. I already started on taking off some stuff, following through the Haynes manual. But I figured some people here with experience pulling out this engine might have some time and blood saving tips. Is it necessary to completely remove the radiator, or is that more of just a precaution to prevent damaging it? Thanks in advance, again!!!
I found this place on ebay, http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/CHRYS...spagenameZWDVW
Has anyone ever bought from them, or atleast does everything look good to you guys? Also as far as gaskets seals that I will end up needing, where would be the best place to buy from? Just like everyone else, I want stuff cheap, but I don't want to buy crap gaskets, that will end up leaking soon. And by the way I'm not sure that I'll need to buy that or another head, but I was bored and decided to search around a bit. Won't be pulling the engine for about 10 days, my old man decided to buy an engine hoist and stand, and said it should arrive in 10 days.
Thanks once again!!!
I found this place on ebay, http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/CHRYS...spagenameZWDVW
Has anyone ever bought from them, or atleast does everything look good to you guys? Also as far as gaskets seals that I will end up needing, where would be the best place to buy from? Just like everyone else, I want stuff cheap, but I don't want to buy crap gaskets, that will end up leaking soon. And by the way I'm not sure that I'll need to buy that or another head, but I was bored and decided to search around a bit. Won't be pulling the engine for about 10 days, my old man decided to buy an engine hoist and stand, and said it should arrive in 10 days.
Thanks once again!!!
#14
#15
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ORIGINAL: junkie97neon
Well, I decided last nite that I was going to take the head off. So, as I was starting to do it today, I decided that I was just going to pull the entire engine. It looks as though the rear main seal is leaking, and it will just make every much easier to check and replace. So, basically does anyone have any tips/hints/suggestions before I do this. I already started on taking off some stuff, following through the Haynes manual. But I figured some people here with experience pulling out this engine might have some time and blood saving tips. Is it necessary to completely remove the radiator, or is that more of just a precaution to prevent damaging it? Thanks in advance, again!!!
I found this place on ebay, http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/CHRYS...spagenameZWDVW
Has anyone ever bought from them, or atleast does everything look good to you guys? Also as far as gaskets seals that I will end up needing, where would be the best place to buy from? Just like everyone else, I want stuff cheap, but I don't want to buy crap gaskets, that will end up leaking soon. And by the way I'm not sure that I'll need to buy that or another head, but I was bored and decided to search around a bit. Won't be pulling the engine for about 10 days, my old man decided to buy an engine hoist and stand, and said it should arrive in 10 days.
Thanks once again!!!
Well, I decided last nite that I was going to take the head off. So, as I was starting to do it today, I decided that I was just going to pull the entire engine. It looks as though the rear main seal is leaking, and it will just make every much easier to check and replace. So, basically does anyone have any tips/hints/suggestions before I do this. I already started on taking off some stuff, following through the Haynes manual. But I figured some people here with experience pulling out this engine might have some time and blood saving tips. Is it necessary to completely remove the radiator, or is that more of just a precaution to prevent damaging it? Thanks in advance, again!!!
I found this place on ebay, http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/CHRYS...spagenameZWDVW
Has anyone ever bought from them, or atleast does everything look good to you guys? Also as far as gaskets seals that I will end up needing, where would be the best place to buy from? Just like everyone else, I want stuff cheap, but I don't want to buy crap gaskets, that will end up leaking soon. And by the way I'm not sure that I'll need to buy that or another head, but I was bored and decided to search around a bit. Won't be pulling the engine for about 10 days, my old man decided to buy an engine hoist and stand, and said it should arrive in 10 days.
Thanks once again!!!
You might also want to pull the pulley off the Crank - on my DOHC comes out easily with the pulley on - but I found it easier to put the engine back in with the pulley off - it will give you an extra 2+ inches between the firewall to angle the motor back in.
The 1st time I pulled my engine, rebuilt, and re-installed it took me two weekends - now a days I can pull-rebuild-install a engine in a weekend. It is just that easy!!!
Not sure about that Ebay Link- seems a little bit high - just a few week ago I bought a DOHC Head for $100 bucks from the junkyard and took it to a machine shop and had it inspected, 16 Lifters replaced, and 4 Rockers replaced for $95
#16
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I already have the crank pulley off, and I guess I'll go ahead and pull the radiator too. Guess I should just stick with exactly how they Haynes manual says to do it. Also, that ebay one said everything was check and to correct specs with warranty. And after calling my 3 "local"(the ones I could find within around 70 miles) machine shops, the cheapest wanted about $150 to plane, test, clean, and do a valve job, plus any parts that need replaced. And with those there's no warranty. I'm gonna try to check around at some machine shops around the St. Louis area, bout 90 miles away. Like I said I won't even be pulling it for about 10 days until the lift/stand gets here. Thanks again!!!
#17
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New questions. Was size is the hub bolt, to take off the driveaxles? Any tips on doing this, leave the transaxle in the car or disconnect the driveaxle somewhere else? What size is the oil pan drain bolt? 15mm too small 17 mm too big and I think it's also between 11/16 and 5/8? I am guessing its 16mm, but not positive. Also, I checked with 1 machine shop in St. Louis, and they were within the same price range as the ones around here. Also, how am I supposed to disconnect most of those electrical connectors between the engine and firewall, there's 2 or 3 I can't quite get. Thanks again!!
#18
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ORIGINAL: junkie97neon
New questions. Was size is the hub bolt, to take off the driveaxles? Any tips on doing this, leave the transaxle in the car or disconnect the driveaxle somewhere else? What size is the oil pan drain bolt? 15mm too small 17 mm too big and I think it's also between 11/16 and 5/8? I am guessing its 16mm, but not positive. Also, I checked with 1 machine shop in St. Louis, and they were within the same price range as the ones around here. Also, how am I supposed to disconnect most of those electrical connectors between the engine and firewall, there's 2 or 3 I can't quite get. Thanks again!!
New questions. Was size is the hub bolt, to take off the driveaxles? Any tips on doing this, leave the transaxle in the car or disconnect the driveaxle somewhere else? What size is the oil pan drain bolt? 15mm too small 17 mm too big and I think it's also between 11/16 and 5/8? I am guessing its 16mm, but not positive. Also, I checked with 1 machine shop in St. Louis, and they were within the same price range as the ones around here. Also, how am I supposed to disconnect most of those electrical connectors between the engine and firewall, there's 2 or 3 I can't quite get. Thanks again!!
You will have to unplug all of the sensors and Alt Cables - I general do this from under the car, then move to the top and disconnect the Fuel Injectors, Cam Sensor, Coil, and Starter from the front with the map sensors and others - the harness is long enough to hang over the driver side fender wall. Disconnect the Exhaust Manifold from the exhaust pipe, go ahead and remove your PVC and the pipe going to the TB. unbolt the Tranny, the front engine mount from the passenger fender well, and the engine mount that is below the starter/radiator - your engine should pull right out.
On mine it takes 2 differentsizes - the Bolt Headis 16mm and the other Nutside was 15mm
I think the Oil Drain Pan was a 13mm
That is odd on the machine price - I have priced out a few here in town and there was not much more the n $50 difference between the shops. although I take all of my work to one shop - I might be getting a return customer discount since I have used him for the last 2 years.
#19
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The only thing that I'm gonna do with the tranny is replace the rotten, falling apart pan gasket, and might as well change filter/fluid. So, just unbolt the transaxle from engine/flywheel/torque converter. Dont' really know what's inbetween the two if anything. Thanks again, I think leaving the tranny in's gonna save alot of pain!!
#20
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ORIGINAL: junkie97neon
The only thing that I'm gonna do with the tranny is replace the rotten, falling apart pan gasket, and might as well change filter/fluid. So, just unbolt the transaxle from engine/flywheel/torque converter. Dont' really know what's inbetween the two if anything. Thanks again, I think leaving the tranny in's gonna save alot of pain!!
The only thing that I'm gonna do with the tranny is replace the rotten, falling apart pan gasket, and might as well change filter/fluid. So, just unbolt the transaxle from engine/flywheel/torque converter. Dont' really know what's inbetween the two if anything. Thanks again, I think leaving the tranny in's gonna save alot of pain!!
Leaving the tranny is save a lot of time and work!