1st Gen Neon 1995 through 1999 Neons

TB w/ cc HELP

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Old 10-16-2007, 11:54 AM
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Default TB w/ cc HELP

Ok so as i stated in my last post, i bought an atx tb which was supposed to have cc. when i received it i noticed that the cable connections were different than on my mtx tb w/ cc. there are 3 pictures in the post. the first 2 are the one that i bought and the 3rd is my tb on the engine. can someone please clarify if i recieved an atx w/ cc? maybe the connections are just different....


[IMG]local://upfiles/61528/BE3DB3637965422E97F0C19D7020E84D.jpg[/IMG]

[IMG]local://upfiles/61528/1EB85ADE1D024D75B6C3365CEFE138B2.jpg[/IMG]

[IMG]local://upfiles/61528/61427AE08D2740C49A79730E19A7DA62.jpg[/IMG]
 
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Old 10-16-2007, 12:45 PM
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Default RE: TB w/ cc HELP

the one you bought is ATX withOUT cc. real simple fix, and it's better this way anyway. what you need to do is...
1. inside both throttle bodies, take out the 2 (two) screws holding the plate in the throat.
2. Remove the bolts holding the throttle position sensor in place (i believe there are two)
3.on the outside, there is a snap ring that holds the shaft inside the throttle body. take this off. then swap the shafts, so that you have the manual shaft inside the auto tb. this also helps the dreaded "touchy takeoff" that is common with the atx swap.
4.then just put the plate back inside the throat.
 
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Old 10-16-2007, 01:00 PM
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Default RE: TB w/ cc HELP

thanks for the reply. i was pretty sure i had received the wrong tb but had heard i can swap the throttle link. where exactly is this snap ring? is it on the side w/ the tps?
 
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Old 10-17-2007, 02:12 PM
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Default RE: TB w/ cc HELP

the stupid clip thing is behind/under the tps (throttle position sensor)

remove the sensor, then the clip will be right there

nearly have to have a spring clip pliers thing a ma bob to get it off and on, but i did do it without a pair.

this will help with the touchy take off because if you compare the two cable parts (where the cable lays in the grooves) you will notice a very different shape. the manual has to have more pedal travel to move the blade the same distance as the auto, which means less touchy pedal at near idle positions. after you get on the pedal a little more, tho, it evens out.
 




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