my 2nd neon
#2
#4
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First buy a factory or a Haynes manual, read the section on service brakes and the precautions needed when working on them. They have a section on repairing brake lines.
It goes with out saying that you will be working under your car so jack stands and safety goggles are a must. When ever I am under any of mine I leave both hydraulic jacks in place plus use four welded and cast jack stands. Read all and understand all of the safety precautions that came with the jack and jack stands. If you have any doubts or have never worked on brakes before consider going to a brake shop to have the work done.
Now, on to the details. You will need a quality double flaring tool, a tube cutter, line wrenches and a bending tool. Parts need will be a lenght of brake line with flare nuts on both ends as long as or slightly longer than the rusty line you plan to replace a flare nut and a joiner fitting. Typicaly the line goes bad where it dips under the frame and comes back up to the brake hose bracket. Get the right parts the first time, take the section of line, including the flare and flare nut, that broke off with you to the parts store. Saves a lot of grief. Follow the instructions on cutting a flaring the origional steel brake line, dont forget to slide the flare nut on before you flare the end of the tube.
Again, if you have any doubts or have never worked on brakes before consider going to a brake shop to have the work done. Compare their price to the price of having to buy any or all of the needed tools and safety equiment.
It goes with out saying that you will be working under your car so jack stands and safety goggles are a must. When ever I am under any of mine I leave both hydraulic jacks in place plus use four welded and cast jack stands. Read all and understand all of the safety precautions that came with the jack and jack stands. If you have any doubts or have never worked on brakes before consider going to a brake shop to have the work done.
Now, on to the details. You will need a quality double flaring tool, a tube cutter, line wrenches and a bending tool. Parts need will be a lenght of brake line with flare nuts on both ends as long as or slightly longer than the rusty line you plan to replace a flare nut and a joiner fitting. Typicaly the line goes bad where it dips under the frame and comes back up to the brake hose bracket. Get the right parts the first time, take the section of line, including the flare and flare nut, that broke off with you to the parts store. Saves a lot of grief. Follow the instructions on cutting a flaring the origional steel brake line, dont forget to slide the flare nut on before you flare the end of the tube.
Again, if you have any doubts or have never worked on brakes before consider going to a brake shop to have the work done. Compare their price to the price of having to buy any or all of the needed tools and safety equiment.
#5