When will a first gen. neon die?
ORIGINAL: pimpberetta
Bought my neon at 150k and has 230 now. Its suffered multiple overheats and 2 bad oil losses. One from cam seal and one from the rear main. Both made the engine come to a hault lol. It now ticks pretty loud upon start up, but it still runs quite strong. Compression is good, no lower end noises.
Like stated before, one of the biggest to making an engine last is WARM UP! Idoling an engine will get it warm on the guage, but you have to drive it around slowly to bring some majors components up to temp. like the crankshaft. It is a must to do this everytime you start up a snowmobile, or a cold seize will be in order. 4 strokes are more forgiving, but they will break down as well if not given time to warm up.
Hope this helps.
Bought my neon at 150k and has 230 now. Its suffered multiple overheats and 2 bad oil losses. One from cam seal and one from the rear main. Both made the engine come to a hault lol. It now ticks pretty loud upon start up, but it still runs quite strong. Compression is good, no lower end noises.
Like stated before, one of the biggest to making an engine last is WARM UP! Idoling an engine will get it warm on the guage, but you have to drive it around slowly to bring some majors components up to temp. like the crankshaft. It is a must to do this everytime you start up a snowmobile, or a cold seize will be in order. 4 strokes are more forgiving, but they will break down as well if not given time to warm up.
Hope this helps.

I said basically the same thing, give the car time to warm up so it doesn't stress itself
I leave the motor run a good 2-5 minutes before I start driving in winter just so I know its well oiled. Then once I'm driving I take it real slow and go about 5mph under speed limittill it reaches operating temp. That gives the motor and Transmission time to get up to temp. As you said the Motor can be warm but the transmission may be cold and hard to turn so its a good Idea to make sure both are warm before you beat on the car or drive hard.
Machining technology, lubrication technology, and just about everything else has changed. Motors lasting over 200K with no major problems are the norm.
One caveat to that. Now-a-days since regulations have been so relaxed or thrown out the window (mortage crisis, anyone?) people who can't afford it are buying new cars. All they can do is pay the loan so maintanence goes by the wayside. Yearly oil changes if any.
One caveat to that. Now-a-days since regulations have been so relaxed or thrown out the window (mortage crisis, anyone?) people who can't afford it are buying new cars. All they can do is pay the loan so maintanence goes by the wayside. Yearly oil changes if any.



