Its been workin for 5 months prior! and again your not making any sense, I was wrong you have good information 80% of the time not 90% like I once thought.

Your right I don't know my Air/Fuel Ratio on the fly most of the time.but I do know that I don't ping. My OBD-2 scanner see's that with my Bosch Widebando2 sensorand everything is in the green zone on Digimoto OBD-2 Program. Didn't think I was fkn stupid did you? I was prepared Again do you have a turbo running on your car? Didn't think so, so STFU . I think yer a cool Dude but damn!

The IAT trick works cuz when the PCM see's a lower temp it gives more fuel and I have verified this with my OBD-2 scanner via my laptop computer. I know itsgot enough fuel cuz I had to unfoul my plugs out with a torchand go with a touch smaller resistor thatmakes the PCM see about 55 degreesand now it works without foul and without ping. In all honestly cold plugs and the resistor are all that I needed for 8psi I'm not saying its the Gospel for everyone else, but it works for me. Cold plugs drop combustion temp which reduces the chance of ping by itself, plus the bit higher octane gas I've been using also must be working. I know more air more fuel blah blah blah.

If you want I'll get my fkn webcam set up on my laptop and take a drive and show you that I don't ping, plus then I'll get video of under the hood to show you I have no tricks up my sleeve. But why should I prove to you that it works when I've been driving it long enough to know it WERKS, who do I need to convince?

When I first got my turbo the guy had it set at 14psi and I drove it for about a week that way but my map clamp was defective and in the mean time waiting for a new one I drove around on 14psi but with the old map clamp throwing a fit it wouldn't let themotor rev over 3200 Rpmwhich is probably what saved me from blowing the motor on a stock system. I called the guy I got the turbo from and told him I got it in and the turbo spooled niceand he asked me if I got a longer actuator rod cuz the one thats on there is set for 14psi!!!. I was actually glad the map clamp was a piece of ****, it being a little ***** stopping the motor from going over 3200 Rpm probably saved the motor. The guy on ebay eventually sent me a new one and that one has been working ever since.

I know what resistors to put in because the IAT works off of ohm readings, for instance cold start up at70 degreesthe pcm see's12,000 Ohms, operating temp at 190-200 degrees is 750-1,000 ohms. I'm a fkn Genious thats how I know

Actually this is how I know : http://www.autozone.com/az/cds/en_us...rInfoPages.htm
[ol][*]
"With the engine and sensor at normal operating temperature, about 200°F, the DVOM should read about 700-1,000 ohms"[*]
"With the engine and sensor at room temperature, about 70°F, the DVOM should read about 7,000-13,000 ohms." [/ol]
"PWNED"
I believe the term your looking for is not SHADY Mechanic but Shade Tree Mechanic like the TNN show from the 90s, in that case thanks for the compliment.

 

yeah but the major differance between that Magnum SOHC 2.0 and the DOHC 2.4 is the availble tq... so yeah both rated at 150hp but the 2.0s are rated at around 130lb-ft while the 2.4 is rated at around 150 lb-ft that extra 20 lb-ft will make a huge differance in how powerfull that car feels... not to mention that if you remove the balance shafts and throw in a set of either stock 2.0 DOHC cams or crane cams you will have a ton more power also i have seen that the DOHC 2.0 motor kinda maxes out at around 175hp at the wheels all motor... but i've seen the 2.4 droping around 210-215hp at the wheels with the same mods as the DOHC all motor wise... I'm not saying that a SOHC mag engine wouldn't be a worth while investment but if you went that way the main diff between the regular 2.0 and the magnum is the cam... you can just throw a crane came in and call her a day and thats a lot cheaper then swaping the whole motor also... there is no replacement for displacement yes turbos help but take that same turbo kit that would make 225 hp on the sohc mag 2.0 and i'm betting it would be cranking well over 250hp on a 2.4... so you say its not worth going to a stock 2.4... you know maybe not its not that big of an upgrade stock to stock but lets say your motor is dead and you need a new one... gotta spend the money anyway might as well go with the 2.4... Right now i have a DOHC 2.0 and i love its a great motor plenty of power and its stock.... i can't wait to throw a couple mods on the thing and open her up a bit... but if it ever comes to replacing the motor i'm deff going for the 2.4... why? cause all the mods i will have on my 2.0 will swap over... not to mention the stock 2.0 DOHCs will add a few more ponies and i would also remove the balance shafts so that would also add a couple more ponies... so over all if i did the swap with the mods i'm looking at i'm guessing i'd probably be sitting anywhere for 15-25hp over what the DOHC 2.0 would be making not to mention the probably close to 30lb-ft of tq extra... yest stock for stock might not be worth it but it is better base to build upon then the 2.0 just cause its bigger... if your going for power there is going to come a point that you just can't get anymore out of the 2.0 (SOHC or DOHC) and thats were the 2.4 becomes worth its weight in gold.... that extra .4 of a liter can make all the difference in the world... hell thats around 20-22 cubic inches thats around 20 percent increase in engine size to put it into perspective chevy guys love to build the 383 strokers... cause the extra 33 ci allows for a lot more power... which is less then a 10 percent increase in engine size... if they could increase a chevy 350 20 percent it would make the engine a 420ci engine.... maybe that will help you understand the reason why people go to the 2.4 swap... yeah the srt4 or pt turbo engine would be great but the stock electronics can be a major pain in the *** to get to work in a different car... which means you would have to go standalone most likely (i'm not saying you can't get the stock electronics to work but it would be way more headache then getting the regular 2.4 to work) which would add more to the cost the megasquirt is an option and its the cheapest but still your talking 300 bucks at least once you get it going.... and from there they get insane... so your talking major bucks for the 2.4 turbo swap right off the bat... where as you could buy the 2.4 swap it in with a couple mods and swaping a couple wires around on the ecu...

 

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