No I haven't checked the fuel pressure yet simply because I don't have a gauge to check it. How much does it usually cost to have a garage check it? I have been checking what I can check with the multimeter. I don't guess there is any way to check the catalytic converter myself either? I'm going to check the camshaft and crankshaft sensors tomorrow. Trying to figure this out has taken up alot of my time.

I just don't understand that when I had autozone check the OBD-II they told me it was the primary and secondary on the coil, which I replaced the coil the coil harness and the pcm and still pull up code 11 on my onboard diagnostic and the car still does the same thing, like I said I even checked the wire continuity with the ohm meter from the pcm harness to the coil harness and its not shorting out.

 

well sound like you spent enought money on other things getting replaced i would just go out and get the fuel pressure tester and at least check that next.

 

I believe I finally solved the problem with the car acting in this manner.

Codes I got:


11 - a.) Intermittent loss of either camshaft or crankshaft position sensor.
b.) No crank reference signal detected during engine cranking. (which I believe is
also the same as)...
b.) No Distributer reference signal detected during engine cranking. check the circuit
between the distributer and the PCM.
and c.)Timing belt skipped 1 tooth or more from initial learned value.

12 - Direct battery input to PCM was disconnected within the last 50 key on cycles. (which
is from me disconnecting the battery.)

43 - Multiple / single cylinder misfire detected. Peak primary circuit current not achieved
with the maximum dwell time.


After replacing the:
1. coil pack
2. camshaft position sensor
3. timing belt
4. pcm

It finally cam down to the "CRANKSHAFT POSITION SENSOR"!!!!!!!!!!!!!
I've replaced that and the car has been running fine so far, I haven't been getting any of the codes 11 or 43. So I hope if anyone is having the same problems or close to the same problems and pulling up the same codes. I wouldn't overlook the crankshaft position sensor. It is very easy to remove and install behind the engine block toward the firewall close to the alternator and only held in by one screw.

 

1st-did anyone considerered that the car start cold and warm up after 1-3 miles.....
2nd- Code11: if the any of these sensor work bad... the car will runs bad
3rd- Code 43 comes with Code 11.... when the camshaft or crankshaft say to the module to ignite and its not really the good timing...Knock sensor is going crazy and say: ' Hey buddy.....SOMETHING IS WRONG!!!!'
4th- A good way to test the crankshaft and camshaft sensor is: Using a multimeter in AC Volt mode, Pass a screwdriver or something in iron in front of it, you should real a low voltage everything you pass near it.

but this was not a easy trouble and sometimes a Code comes with another one