yeah but if i swap my 2.0 stuff to the 2.4 im saying i get more displacement and torque and that is why i feel its a logical step. i have a dead zone between 1 and 2k rpms. headwork and cams - if thought through - can be applied to the 2.0 and then just swapped to the 2.4 block whenever id be ready for it. those two mods are usually expensive though. so im gonna see ifa used set of 18's pop up anywhere over the next couple months.

 

There were two sets on org for $300. Headwork is only as good as the person doing it. It also depends on what type of car you are building. it is not just a hog out ports and go deal. Smooth and shiny is not the fool-proof plan to a good head, nor are flow numbers the sole basis for a port job. Just my opinions based on some research. I need to put on the head i did. Should be interesting to say the least.

 

prothane race fmm insert + mopar bobble strut + stock trans and side mount = my engine falling haflway out of my car.

i lauched it from a dead stop today hard. the bolt busted in the passenger side mount. luckily 5 minutes from advance auto. then i busted the tensioner bolt on the alternator. so i pulled the mount - drilled the bolt out (without removing the power steering pump) and got it all bolted back up. i dunno what i'll do for this permantly.

 

my old red r/t used to have no problem spinning the tires through 4th gear on dry pavement
but this little soch auto sux...no mods but a cold air intake and a muffler[&o]

 

with only a computer, tb, minor port and polish work, and those bored/shaved pistons and head, ect i would say putting 130 to the ground is acccurate

i went to mopar nationals in carlisle and dynoed my r/t w
mopar comuter
atx tb
magnaflow high flow cat
thrush resonator
no muffler
iceman intake
94 octane always

i put down 122whp and 117ft/lbs torque

so ur about right

 

fyi...the july show is just called chryslers at calisle...last i head, the nationals were in ohio