Well scratch that idea then :P I may just save for the full build or do the 2.4 srt-4 internal swap. I wanted to keep the 2.0 for the high revs.

 

Keep the 2.0 cams

 

nice beet, i would go with eagle rods, and wiesco pistions, 8.6 -1 that is what i am going to be putting in my car when i get the bottom end built. then i am looking at running in the 15-20 psi range

 

a problem with high boost on stock pistons is the are between the wrist pin and the bottom of the piston.....

if you do decide to go with the expensive build, make sure to get good bearings....i have seen people spend tons of money on pistons, rods, and other internal work, yet go cheap on the bearings....i loved clevite 77 bearings

 

x2^ on the Clevite bearings, I installed the ones for my SRT with the .0005 clearance to help with higher revs, course I only rev out to 6500, but in time will be 7k. Check out CP pistons I know alot of SRT that are running these and love them, they are only 355gram, ultra light weight, I went with BC rods, but they only make them for SRT, now if you go with the 2.4L then you can run these, they are good for up to 650ish hp. 2.0 cams are good but if you go with the 2.4L, get either a set of BC stage 2 cams or cranes, best out there. Plus valve train upgrades have more possibilities for the 2.4 I think

 

one thing for sure is there is no substitute for cubic inches. you will always be able to pull more power out of a larger compression chamber. I got a high compression motor and I'm beating lightly moded SRT-4's here in ATL. Could have a lot to do w/ the driver too I'm a regular on the race track. Also, you can get a first gen a lot lighter than the srt. mine's stripped. Stock, the tag on the car says 3200, but it's more like 2500 (at least that's what the weight classification rates it at from NASA). lightened, around 1750-2000.