The hydraulic part may last the lifetime but the pulley the belt rides on should be replaced.

 

My 1995 model car uses a mechanical tensioner that is spring loaded. This particular tensioner can and will go bad and should be replaced if it shows signs of being a little spongy when compressing it. A higher then desired failure rate is why they changed to the hydraulic tensioner.

My personal recommendation is always replace the belt and tensioner pulley. Mechanical tensioners should be checked for spring tension and replaced if spongy.

I would replace the water pump if you have more then 50K miles on the pump, as who wants to replace a water pump gone bad since it will almost always take out the timing belt when it goes and only costs ~ $40? If the motor has more then 100K miles on it, then I also recommend replacing the oil pump too (~ $75) since I would rather spend a little to save myself a lot of grief later.

Kinda like buying car insurance. Spend a little to hopefully spare a lot of future grief.

 

Thank you for the information! So aside from the actual Hydraulic or Mechanical tensioner there is a pulley that also should be replaced?, any idea what that may be called exactly and where I can purchase it? I was also told by aamco that there may be idlers that also need to be replaced, is this true?

http://www.partsgeek.com/gbproducts/...ek+Google+Base

Is this pulley above in the link.. different from the actual hydraulic tensioner? What does the hydraulic tensioner look like? I've looked everywhere and can't seem to find. Thank you again.
Well if this is confusing my main quesition is, the tensioner pulley and the actualy hydraulic tensioner are two different parts correct? and what are the idlers the aamco guy was speaking of.. Sorry if I sound mechanically illiterate, but this is my 1st car, I just turned 17 and don't want it to die on me due not keeping up on proper maintenance. Thank you!





My car just got to 115,000 next time I replace belt i'll take a look at replacing oil pump aswell and the water pump once again.. along with everything else they didn't replace the 1st time...(these tensioners that i am not clear about.hopefully it lasts.

 

Here is what you need (using Advance Auto parts as a guide) and since I do not know if your engine is SOHC or DOHC:


SOHC engine (VIN code C aka ECB engine)

PART number TB245K1 Timing belt kit. Includes belt and tensioner. Cost $68

DOHC engine (VIN Code Y aka ECC engine)

1) PART number 84061 Timing belt component kit includes camshaft belt tensioner pulley and camshaft belt idler pulley - $62

2) PART number 95246 Timing belt - $53.

Shop around, you can do better.

 

I am so glad to hear that there are still some 17 year old kids interested in doing their own repairs! When I was 17, I had time and zero money, so I had no choice even if I didn't love doing it anyway! My dad was a mechanic so I learned from him, and now that I'm 45, I do it because a) I save money, and b) I still love doing it.

That said, the best $25 bucks you can spend is for the Haynes repair manual. Now if your local library is a good one, you may even find one that you can borrow. When I owned my 1978 Volkswagon Rabbit, I borrowed that repair manual about 15 times and dog eared the heck out of it. Best money I never spent.

If you decide to change the oil pump, it will require you to remove the Crankshaft Harmonic balancer pulley and you can borrow the tools both to remove and replace it from Advance, Autozone, O'Reilly, NAPA, etc. Pay a deposit and get it back when done.

Please DO NOT do any heating and beating, or just beat and bang the pulley to get it on as it can cause the front oil seal to pop out of the pump and cause you even more headaches and completely wreck the engine. Also, don't try to chase it on using the crank bolt as it can strip out the threads located deep inside the crank and you will have to get a machine shop to clean it up if you do - or pay $80 for a 6" long 12x1.75mm tap tool to do it yourself - which is ridiculous as the shop only charged me $10 bucks....

Experience can be gained by making mistakes, but is better learned by listening to those who already made them.....

Have fun and enjoy it! You'll look back when you are older and fondly remember the times you worked on your own cars...... I still do.

 

I have a 98 Dodge Neon DOHC, Highline coupe, (will post pics)
Thanks for all your help! You have no idea how much I appreciate it, I am sorry I have taken so long to respond busy with SAT'S and prep for college. since you are very knowledgeable I know this is going off topic, but I have one main problem with my neon, even on the best day I am getting about 16 mpg, I have bought both the upstream and downstream 02 sensors, ( I wasn't getting any codes, but what else could be causing such poor gas mielage? I got them half off so spent about 80$ on both with a coupon @ advance, but I am not sure if I should go to a mechanic to have them installed, I have an idea where the one sensor is right below the car next to the cat, but no clue where the other one is, 2nd, if thats not causing the problem should I buy a new fuel pump? its about 200 dollars.. + a mechanic having to drop the tank as I don't have the proper tools to do so..




ONE last question, the manual calls for 5w30, when I bought it it had 5w30 in it.. last two oil changes i have been using 10w30, the car has 116,000 miles on it, a mechanic recommended using 10w30, or evn 20w50 in summer, i live in PA, what do you reccomend I use with that mielage on the car..


THANK YOU

 

btw, I mention fuel pump because sadly this neon doesnt' have a fuel filter that can easily be replaced its attached to fuel pump..so tank has to be dropped and new fuel pump installed, on cold starts, and cold mornings.. (15-25 F.. i smell a very strong gas smell if i cover muffler with my hand but it goes away after 5 minutes.. what other reasons could cause such poor gas mielage?

I have a new air filter in it, bought NGK IRidium spark plugs, (haven't put them in yet), and new spark wires, waiting till summer to do all that in 2-3 months, let me know thank you.

 

I pretty much answered your questions on the other post that you are a member of so read it too.

https://dodgeforum.com/forum/1st-gen...on-a-99-a.html


Do the compression test, do the leakdown test - get loaner tools from advance auto if you don't want to buy your own. If they don't indicate a problem, then by all means change the plugs and wires and since you already have the sensors, keep them handy.

Replacing an O2 sensor when you don't need to is a big waste of money.

As for replacing them, they are easy. The upstream sensor is located on the exhaust manifold just under the air box. Remove the air box and replacing it is easy as pie - you can even get a loaner O2 tool from advance auto parts to make it easier. The downstream sensor is behind the CAT and is also easy to replace - same tool. You can do both in about 1 hour. As I said in the other post - with 116K on the motor, it is way way past time to replace the timing belt unless someone has done it before.

 

BTW, I just noticed that you live in PA and from what I remember about PA is that it gets cold as hell in the winter.

The problem with switching from a 5W-30 oil to a 10W-30 oil, is that when the engine is cold, the thicker the oil, the harder it is for it to get pumped into all the nooks and crannys of an engine and that leads to premature engine wear. I certainly would not go to 20W-50 even in the summer, but 10W-30 is fine for your area AFTER winter and if the temperature stays above the minimum level for 10W-30 oil to maintain proper viscosity, then you can use it now too.

Now if your engine is already worn down, having a thicker oil can indeed keep it from wearing out even faster, but 20W-50 means that part of your engine may starve for oil until it warms up, creating more wear faster. Neons should not use anything about 10W-30 as a general rule.

 

That's why I use synthetic Group IV engine oils. They tend to stick to engine walls to help on start up.