i have a rough idle right now. its from a opened egr valve. if it gets stuck open like mine is it will cause a vacuum in the engine. it makes the idle very rough. it will run fine once you get moving but at idle it will stall. you can get plate from the dealer that will clog the hole. once you block it the idle should straighten out. just another thought on your rough idle.

 

i had read that before somewhere and ruled it out cuz i think there is a pcm code for a faulty egr and i figured that wouldnt effect just one cylinder in particular but all of them instead. worth a shot tho. thanks

 

well ive changed the cam position sensor and fixed the shotty wiring the old owner did and got the check engine light off. it hasnt come on in a couple days however i still have the rough idle. a friend figured maybe it was a leaky injector but i changed that today and that wasnt the problem. the only thing i can think of thats left is compression, my friend says his testor probably wont reach the plug hole, any suggestions?

 

Spray carb/manifold cleaner into you throttle body.

Advise you do this in a secluded area

Get a can of seafoam deposit the content using a vacuum tube into your intake manifold. This should be done after the car is warm. Your car may stall during this process. Just use the entire can. Then take it for a spirited drive around. Expect a lot of smoke to come out of your car. When the smoke stops, you are done.

 

well they have the extensions that reach the spark plug holes, at least mine does.

 

hey, sorry i havent been on here in a while to update this. the timing belt ended up blowing on the car and when my friend replaced he checked the compression and found it to have zero. so, needless to say, the cheapest option ive come up with is to replace the whole engine. quick question tho, im pretty sure of the answer but b4 wrongly investing anymore money into this car i figured i would double check, but, will a 96 neon engine with an atx be a direct swap into a 95 neon with an mtx? i want to keep the mtx but im just making sure that the engine mounts and bellhousing bolts r the same

 

A 96 engine (the core of the engine - head, block, internal components) are the same as a 95 model. The 95 MTX tranny will bolt onto that engine as if it were originally made be be that way.

The problem that a 95 PCM will only work with a 95 engine and sensors and some connectors are way different and located in different places. You need to get a 96 PCM from a model that had a MTX and do not mix SOHC and DOHC PCMS either. If your 95 MTX is SOHC, then get a 96 MTX SOHC PCM too. And if possible, get the entire wiring harnesses (both sets) from the car too. Hopefully, the engine you get may still have good sensors on it, so you won't have to replace them.

While you can function with an ATX PCM on an MTX, your PCM will spew error codes about missing ATX components and keep your check engine light lit - which is very annoying.

Good luck.

 

Well I have a 95 SOHC wit and MTX and I got a good deal on a 96 wit an ATX. Since I only need the engine, could I take the engine and the PCM from the 96 and put it in my 95?

 

yes, also don't forget the engine wireing harness.

 

And remember, your PCM has codes for ATX torque converter lockup (and others) that will generate error codes since you are going to keep using the MTX. You may want to do an online search to find a 96 MTX PCM to replace the 96 ATX PCM at some point.