I have a 98 Neon highline SOHC that suddenly developed problems a few weeks ago. I was out driving, had the a/c on, slowed down to turn a corner, and chug chug die. had to push it aside. waited a few hours, topped off fluids, ( antifreeze was about 1/2 gal low, oil good) and it started right up. let it run for about 5-10 minutes, just in case. pulled out onto the street, and chug chug die. towed it to the shop. started right up for them, they took it on a test drive, and it died again. they replaced the crank and cam position sensors, they said the wiring harness looked 'stretched' and so they pushed the power distribution center box up next to it ( im assuming to help relieve tension from the wires?), drove it home. ( at this point my stereo has zero power, too, but that might be from monkeying with the PDC box) a few days later, i noticed that the PCV valve hose was snapped in 2, so i replaced both the hose and the valve. ran fine for a few more days. then i went to start and go, and i got chug chug chug SERIOUS hesitation when i accelerate. not driveable. so i replaced the valve cover gasket, plugs n wires. and a good thing, too, 3 of 4 plugs were soaking in oil. I did clean out the spark plug tubes as best i could to get the oil out. only trouble is, it didnt fix the problem. stuttering and hesitation ONLY on acceleration. park/neutral idles smoothly. in gear, no gas, runs smooth. add gas, and it chugs and hesitates, seems like its about to stall, but it does keep running. im thinking fuel filter. any other plausible ideas?

 

oh, and now it wont start at all. it tries to turn over, but it wont catch. RPM's bounce occasionally, but they dont get above 250-500.

 

Check for error codes first. Do the dodge key dance (on-off 3 times rapidly then back to on) and watch the check engine light for blink codes.
Each error code is 2 digits so Blink blink pause blink blink pause is error code 22. Ignore error codes 12 and 55 (55 is the all done code).

Also, as a quick and free test, disconnect your exhaust pipe at the header. Two spring loaded bolts and it will drop down. Then see if your car will start and run. I had problems similar to yours that also got progressively worse, and found that my catalytic converter was plugged up. You won't get any error codes with that one.

 

i would do the key code check, except i dont have a key cylinder. thieves popped it out when they stole it a few years ago, so im usin a screwdriver to start it. its a bit more cumbersome. would a clogged cat converter prevent it from starting at all?

 

It would if it got so badly clogged that the backpressure was creating a case where the car cannot run.

In my case, I could crank the car, but could not get out of the driveway with it. I had just replaced the donut gasket (which I saw and heard was blown out) and tried to test drive the car and could not. It is a simple test, just undo the two bolts holding the pipe to the header.

Since you cannot do a key dance, go to your nearest autozone, advance, napa, etc. and get them to give you a free code readout from your OBD-II port. The P codes give more details about any error(s) anyway.

 

ok, i think i figured somethin out. i finally got a chance to take a look today ( one of the few days its not raining) come to find out that the cam sensor harness they 'rigged for me but should be repaced real soon' was actually sliced halfway thru, im assuming when they electrical taped the 3 inches of exposed wire. i have to check for more cuts in the main power lines that run right next to it, my stereo has no juice. morons prolly nicked that too. ill let ya'll know, but my gut says that when i replace the wiring harness and cam sensor ( again) it will work fine. im going to get a OBDII scanner also so no worries there.