Ok, so i gather from your reply that this 'special tool' is actually externally threaded and is screwed into the crankshaft like the original bolt is but obviously longer so that it butts up inside the shaft. I thought it was just a bar made to the internal diameter of the hole and just placed in there.

 

One of the guys at work with another neon beside mine also recomended to replace the little screens leading to the injector from the fuel rail. They tend to build up varnish which is all but invisible to the naked eye but causes issues. Had perfomance problems himself and cleared up after replacement. May also need to have injectors cleaned. If dirty can definitely cause misses etc. So doublecheck fuel system. At this point a computer diagnosis would still probably be best. Otherwise jsut shooting in the dark. Lots of variables out there to look at besides fault codes you may not get but will show up on a proper scan tool. Unfortunately probably best to bite the bullet at this time and let them have it

 

Great, thanks for that. i will have a look at the injectors when i take them off in a couple of weeks. i am doing the cam belt so i might as well look at them while its off the road. Thanks for your advice. I do agree though, despite there not being any flash codes, i may have to take it in to the dealer. I have a few other things to look at first but may have to take it in as a last resort. Again, thanks for your advice, i will keep all posted

 

Funny enough, the engine mount bolt on that side fits the crank hole perfectly. Just make sure it's all the way in or you jack up the thread and have that bolt stuck in there for good... I use a 3-jaw, 5-ton gear puller to get that pulley off, the teeth on the puller clamp on to the inner ring facing the crankshaft, not the outer ring...

Lots of other sensors tie into fuel trim computation that most people never think of, like coolant temperature and battery temperature...

 

Well, bought myself a 10 tonne hydraulic puller and got a local metalsmith to make me up the tool to go in place of the centre bolt. Dogs Bollox, did the job a treat. although the puller gave way as the pulley broke free. Fortunately i have been sent a replacement puller.
As for the the running fault, i re-adjusted the spark plugs after doing the cam belt and it seemed to run like a dream for a few miles then the fault came back. I had also cleaned up a connection that was oil contaminated. not sure what it was, it runs along the bottom rear of the engine. not sure if this made the difference or adjusting the plugs did. Any ideas what the connection was i cleaned up? i am going to renew the plugs, someone with some experience out there please tell me which plugs are best to use. I dont want to buy a **** set.

thanks so far

 

NGK iridiums or Accel U -grooves....a bad plug would be platinums ...they dont work on neons ...well, also cheap plugs like autolite copper core....arent recommended. Also, Make sure sohc cam is gapped @ .038 and dohc around .050

 

Proper gap for either is 0.035". Overgapping doesn't gain you anything.

 

great stuff, thanks for that gents