Fuel Pump 98 Neon Coup
Holy Crud does this car ever know the worst times to act up.
My basic issue is that the fuses for my fuel pump keep blowing as soon as I try to start the car. I've pretty much ruled out everything else.
Long story short, I believe the fuel pump itself is causing the issue. Not I do have a Haynes repair manual but lets face it, they are pretty ****ty at giving locations, their pictures suck, and I'm sure they worked on a car that was new and unweathered.
So my question is to anyone whose had to replace one of these suckers before is:
Is the fuel pump located on the driver's side of the car?
Does the fuel tank need to be removed to access the pump?
The reason I'm asking is that it died at work so I'm working in a parking lot. Yeah, Fun
My basic issue is that the fuses for my fuel pump keep blowing as soon as I try to start the car. I've pretty much ruled out everything else.
Long story short, I believe the fuel pump itself is causing the issue. Not I do have a Haynes repair manual but lets face it, they are pretty ****ty at giving locations, their pictures suck, and I'm sure they worked on a car that was new and unweathered.
So my question is to anyone whose had to replace one of these suckers before is:
Is the fuel pump located on the driver's side of the car?
Does the fuel tank need to be removed to access the pump?
The reason I'm asking is that it died at work so I'm working in a parking lot. Yeah, Fun
Thanks darthoush
Ok now that I'm in the right section.
Before I go through the whole thing of removing the fuel tank and removing the fuel pump here are the steps I've taken to lead me up to believing that the fuel pump is my issue.
Symptom: Car will not run due to fuel pump fuse blowing at start up. Replacing fuse and starting blows right away.
Recent Changes to that circuit: Installed universal post catalytic converter O2 Sensor.
Removed new O2 Sensor from the circuit
Tested Fuel Pump Relay and Auto Shutdown Relay
Used Multimeter to check for continuity between fuse terminals and chassis(No Short)
So does anyone have any suggestions on things to look for before I bite the bullet and remove the tank?
Ah and just in case someone finds this thread and is looking at having to do this too check this video out:
http://www.youtube.com/embed/RgBgjhxRxDA
Ok now that I'm in the right section.
Before I go through the whole thing of removing the fuel tank and removing the fuel pump here are the steps I've taken to lead me up to believing that the fuel pump is my issue.
Symptom: Car will not run due to fuel pump fuse blowing at start up. Replacing fuse and starting blows right away.
Recent Changes to that circuit: Installed universal post catalytic converter O2 Sensor.
Removed new O2 Sensor from the circuit
Tested Fuel Pump Relay and Auto Shutdown Relay
Used Multimeter to check for continuity between fuse terminals and chassis(No Short)
So does anyone have any suggestions on things to look for before I bite the bullet and remove the tank?
Ah and just in case someone finds this thread and is looking at having to do this too check this video out:
http://www.youtube.com/embed/RgBgjhxRxDA
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Fuel pump fuse blowing is an indication or a bad ground wire or an exposed wire shorting it out. The most common issue is the upstream O2 wiring. It gets exposed and grounds out on the axle causing it to short out.
hummm that is a possibility. The continuity meter doesn't pick anything up between the fuse holder and the body but if its not making direct contact and is sparking to the axle/frame blowing the fuse. I'll check that out when I get a second pair of hands.
Thanks
Thanks
Now I'm gonna ask the question anyway, even though I think I know the answer.
If I stick a fuse the spot for the fuel pump and have the car set to RUN, I can hear a slight high pitch whine coming from PCM. Must be a bad ground cable.
If I stick a fuse the spot for the fuel pump and have the car set to RUN, I can hear a slight high pitch whine coming from PCM. Must be a bad ground cable.


