98 neon stalling problem
If you turn the ignition switch from the off position to the on position (do not turn the engine over, just make the dashboard lights light up) in the following sequence, the check engine light will flash any codes stored...
OFF-ON-OFF-ON-OFF-ON-OFF-ON---THEN LEAVE ON This sequence must be completed within 5 seconds. Off to on 4 times, leaving the key on the last time.
The check engine light will blink a number of times, pause, then blink another number of times.
3 blinks - pause- 4 blinks would be code 34.
Then look up the code. alternatively, you can go to a nationwide parts store like Advance Auto, AutoZone, ect..and they will pull the codes for free and advise what the issue is.
OFF-ON-OFF-ON-OFF-ON-OFF-ON---THEN LEAVE ON This sequence must be completed within 5 seconds. Off to on 4 times, leaving the key on the last time.
The check engine light will blink a number of times, pause, then blink another number of times.
3 blinks - pause- 4 blinks would be code 34.
Then look up the code. alternatively, you can go to a nationwide parts store like Advance Auto, AutoZone, ect..and they will pull the codes for free and advise what the issue is.
Last edited by joester; Apr 15, 2012 at 04:20 PM.
...plus it could be some other things too...
Vulchie, you need to get over your timing sensor issues, I'm pretty sure they're psychosematic at this point
Anyways, point is, we need more details (preferably troubleshooting) to narrow down possibilities. Cause personally, I've had running problems like that mostly from a dying fuel pump, I would suggest borrowing a gauge from autozone. Make sure if the rail is low you test inline after the filter to rule out the lines and then before the filter to rule it out before replacing the pump. Throw a meter on the pigtail while you're down there. If the rail is okay idling, check it at various RPMs and while driving if possible.
Vulchie, you need to get over your timing sensor issues, I'm pretty sure they're psychosematic at this point
Anyways, point is, we need more details (preferably troubleshooting) to narrow down possibilities. Cause personally, I've had running problems like that mostly from a dying fuel pump, I would suggest borrowing a gauge from autozone. Make sure if the rail is low you test inline after the filter to rule out the lines and then before the filter to rule it out before replacing the pump. Throw a meter on the pigtail while you're down there. If the rail is okay idling, check it at various RPMs and while driving if possible.


