Well I checked my a/c the other day by pushing in on the shrader valve and there was about 2 seconds of a slight pssshhh, so im assuming its got a leak somewhere, also my power steering is leaking, im pretty sure its a leak at the resevoir(sp) because its always oily and yes the cap is on tight.
Now some questions.

1)I hear alot about an under drive pulley, what does that do?

2) If I want to remove the powersteering, do i basically remove all the components for it except the actually linkage from the steering wheel? Or is something else involved?

3) For the a/c, can i remove all the compents like the compressor and all the lines that run around the car.

4) Will having both these items dissconnected set off the engine check light or make the car run in a werid way. Im just curious because so much will probably be unplugged in this process.

Sorry for all the questions, I just like to know before I start something.

Thanks in advance

 

Removing the a/c system would be fine , it would lighten the truck a bit but have the power steering fixed.
Removing any of the power steering components would not be good unless u switch your steering box or rack to a manual one.
It would likely be cheaper to fix the p.s. leak than to switch to armstrong steering.

 

Rip out all the powersterring? No way go the cheap and easy route just cut powersteering belt with a knife,bolt cutters, etc.... My 95 neon hasnt had powersterring since the 3 days I bought it off the lot .... On the third day of owning it (No warrenty..AS IS) the belt broke so i yanked the belt out and ive never replaced it and that was 5 years ago..I've had zero problems or issues with steering since. Ohh and my engine light has been on since the day ive bought the neon.

The answer to question one..all it does is be a pain in the ***... to replace the belt you have to remove your front right wheel house to get to the effing beltand that jacks up labor time if a shop does it for you

go figure. [sm=trust_me.gif]

 

1 - An underdrive pulley (UDP) replaces the stock pulley on the crankshaft. It is lighter and smaller in diameter. By being lighter, it takes less effort for the crank to turn it, so more torque (and power) is available to the wheels. By being smaller in diameter, same thing, except any components being driven (a/c, p/s, alt) will turn at a slower rate. Generally this is not a problem unless you have a massive audio system and you idle a lot (battery drain). There are overdrive pulleys (larger diameter) made for the alternator to correct this, or you could run a heavier duty alternator. Most gains from using an UDP is from the lighter weight, not from the smaller diameter. Stock pulley on your '95 I think is over 9 pounds, and most UDP's run in the 0.5 pound range or less. There are two basic types for Neons - Street (has grooves for two belts so you can run all accessories) and Race (one groove, alternator only), with Race obviously being the lighter of the two. Simply removing the ps/ac belt has been dyno proven 4 HP all by itself. A typical "street" UDP has a 6 HP gain (accessories hooked up), and a typical "race" UDP has 10 HP gains. The stock belt(s) will not work with the new pulley. What size(s) is needed depends on which pulley you get. Replacing a belt is no harder than with the stock pulley (I have changed mine just jacking up the car... 15 minute job). Prices range from $60 or so (plus belts) to $150. None gives noticeable gains over any of the others, none have had any reliability problems that I've heard of, but some are easier to install/remove than others by a smidge.

2 - You can safely remove the power steering pump, reservoir and all the lines, including the ones going to the steering rack. Some people "loop" the lines, meaning they add a connector between the two lines on the rack to keep debris out. There really is no point to doing it though... plus a completely open setup is a tad easier to turn at low speeds. I've had mine open for 75k+ miles and have had no problems with the steering rack at all. That portion of the rack is not open in any way to the steering gear. Taking all the parts out lightens the car by a good 30 pounds or so.

3 - You can remove the compressor, condensor, tubing, compressor mounting bracket pretty easily (compressor is the hardest - drops out the bottom). All those parts out lightens the car nearly 45 pounds. It's recommended to have the refrigerant (if there's any left) recovered professionally before you start unless you want to risk a fine.

4 - You will not get a CEL for having the power steering or air conditioning systems removed.

 

Alright, I understand about the air conditioning, it simpily will come right out.

My question is about power steering, will the system still work fine now that there is no pump to power it, do I have to convert something, i heard something about rack n pinion, but I dont have a clue what kind o f steering my car has. I actually dont know thing about that part of a car:S I guess i will learn in time.

 

The power steering pump is just a booster. If you remove the pump, it will turn the same way it did before, by a gear on the steering column mating with a gear on the steering rack. It will be harder to turn, particularly at low speeds. But once you're above 5 mph or so, it's not difficult at all.