98 Neon SOHC Camshaft Postion Sensor
Pull codes need to replace the Camshaft Position Sensor, have the part, they provided the plug as well as the sensor should I replace the plug as well ? This means splicing into the wiring harness it appears. Can I skip that ?
I am 99% sure of this but it has been a while. The cam sensor changed slightly from 95-97 to 98-99. The pigtail also changed along with them. They only offer the newer style cam sensor (98-99) so they have to include the pigtail with it for the 95-97 guys. If your pigtail wont plug into it then you will need to wire in the pigtail you get with it. Just a heads up a cracked magnet, or the timing being off a tooth will cause this light. Will also throw it if the timing belt is broken.
Last edited by I_Ride_Neon; Jul 28, 2012 at 10:47 PM.
Thank you.. Replaced the sensor and pigtail, here it is a week later check engine lite is on, car sputters and stalls, does restart. Codes still say Camshaft positioning sensor, but I am thinking the MAP sensor or Throttle body sensor as well .. any ideas??
Could be timing off a tooth. Did you inspect the magnet on the camshaft when changing the sensor? Make sure its tight, clean, and has no cracks. I have also repaired Chrysler vans that threw a cam code, but in fact had a faulty crank position sensor. If you have a good scan tool with data logging it would not hurt to see what the timing is at, and what the sensor are doing. When the cam sensor faults out it cuts fuel off, crankshaft sensor cuts spark.
I_Ride is correct. The cam and crank sensors get power on the same circuit, so you need so check the wires for the cam and crank sensor to make sure they are not chaffed, cracked insulation, clean, etc.
Check the crank sensor to make sure it is in spec.
Also, double check all the O2 wires. They seem to be especially vulnerable to melting/cracking/etc as they are subjected to lots of heat.
Check the crank sensor to make sure it is in spec.
Also, double check all the O2 wires. They seem to be especially vulnerable to melting/cracking/etc as they are subjected to lots of heat.
I recently had a very similar issue- the crank sensor (underside and back of the block) wires were totally bare and shorting out, but throwing no codes. patched the wires, replaced the crank sensor, and good to go.



