1995 clutch replacement ALL BY MYSELF
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Joined: Aug 2005
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1995 clutch replacement ALL BY MYSELF
Hi Everyone. I let my dad, who is famous for breaking automobiles, borrow my car one day in December of 04. The next time I drove it, the clutch cable broke. I'm a full-time college student so I don't make enough money to get it fixed by a mechanic so I took the job upon myself. I bought a repair manual and got started. The problem is that whenever I started the car, I would hear metal breaking/clanking. The sound was coming from the clutch so I decided to replace the clutch while I'm at it since the car is at 87,000 miles. With full-time school and part-time work I only had time to work on the car about once a week. I finally got the transmission out yesterday and took a look at the clutch. It doesn't look that bad, but I'm going to replace it anyway.
Anyway, my friend told me that I should sign up for a forum to get advice and share experiences, etc.. The end of the clutch cable was missing. Is it possible that it could have fallen into the clutch somehow and is responsible for the noise? I don't know much about engines, I just know how to read a manual
. I'll post pictures of the work I've done later.
I hope this can be an ongoing thread from start to finish of my project.
Everyone keeps telling me to buy a new car, but that's crazy talk. This is a red manual 1995 Dodge Neon! It's priceless! Every time I pick someone up in it, they always comment on the multi-colored "neon" floor mats (have you seen these? I can post pics later). I get 30 m.p.g. since the a/c is broken and it's got amazing power for such a small car. I hope to drive it forever since it's the only car I can park well.
Anyway, my friend told me that I should sign up for a forum to get advice and share experiences, etc.. The end of the clutch cable was missing. Is it possible that it could have fallen into the clutch somehow and is responsible for the noise? I don't know much about engines, I just know how to read a manual
. I'll post pictures of the work I've done later. I hope this can be an ongoing thread from start to finish of my project.
Everyone keeps telling me to buy a new car, but that's crazy talk. This is a red manual 1995 Dodge Neon! It's priceless! Every time I pick someone up in it, they always comment on the multi-colored "neon" floor mats (have you seen these? I can post pics later). I get 30 m.p.g. since the a/c is broken and it's got amazing power for such a small car. I hope to drive it forever since it's the only car I can park well.
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RE: 1995 clutch replacement ALL BY MYSELF
Welcome!
It's very probable that the end of the clutch cable fell into the bellhousing when it broke. There's really no where else for it to go... Mine was kind enough to break as I pressed in the clutch to start the car (which I didn't, obviously...). Had to seperate the tranny from the block, but only enough to reach in and get all the pieces out. The toughest part of doing a clutch swap is getting the silly thing (tranny) lined up and back on. Not fun by yourself when it's 20 degrees outside and snow still on the ground (no garage)...
Since you've got a '95, you have the regular style clutch. Technically, you should replace the flywheel as well. The face is dished (not stepped) and won't engage as smoothly when you put on the new clutch disc. Not that big of a deal really, you'll just have to live with a quicker "grab" or live with shorter clutch life trying to feather it. I've used the same flywheel through 2 clutch changes.
If you want, you can change over the the modular clutch design, where it's all one package deal. No aligning, a little less weight. You'd have to get the adapter kit from the dealer, think it runs $40-50 or so. And you still have to get a few extra bolts on top of that ($3 each give or take). Comes with a new dust shield since you'll be attaching the unit from the backside. Uses the same flexplate that's used in the auto trannies. Doing this would allow you to use the clutch from the PT Cruiser (same tranny), which is rated for a bit more torque and oddly usually costs less.
When it's time to put it all back together, you'll need transaxle fluid (unless you saved the stuff that was in there...). Don't tell the dealership you have a Neon, or they'll tell you to put ATF+4 in there. Tell them you have a PT Cruiser (with the NV T-350 tranny) and they'll sell you the right stuff - Mopar Manual Transaxle Lubricant. Be aware that it runs $12-15 per quart, and you'll have to buy 3 of them... The Factory Service Manual for Neons still says in bold letters never to put automatic transaxle lubricant in the gearbox. There have been some folks that have had great success with Redline MTF, and Amsoil now has a gear lube with the correct additive for the synchros. Personally, I've put ATF in there just to get the car home (dealership was closed), and gladly paid the money to put the right stuff in there again. Like comparing butter to gravel when shifting.
Which engine do you have (SOHC or DOHC)? Other options, etc. With proper care, it'll last plenty long. You're coming due on your timing belt replacement. The book says 105,000 miles, but 90-95k is a much safer bet. Replacing the water pump, tensioner and idler pulley are also highly recommended at the same time. Mines coming due again here soon. Last done ~165k miles, coming up on 238k miles right now. Probably get to it in the spring if I don't swap in a project engine by that point.
You own a Neon. You're either going to become a pretty good backyard mechanic, a very poor Neon owner, or get rid of the car... I chose option "A" and couldn't be happier.
Looking forward to the pics. Best of luck!
It's very probable that the end of the clutch cable fell into the bellhousing when it broke. There's really no where else for it to go... Mine was kind enough to break as I pressed in the clutch to start the car (which I didn't, obviously...). Had to seperate the tranny from the block, but only enough to reach in and get all the pieces out. The toughest part of doing a clutch swap is getting the silly thing (tranny) lined up and back on. Not fun by yourself when it's 20 degrees outside and snow still on the ground (no garage)...
Since you've got a '95, you have the regular style clutch. Technically, you should replace the flywheel as well. The face is dished (not stepped) and won't engage as smoothly when you put on the new clutch disc. Not that big of a deal really, you'll just have to live with a quicker "grab" or live with shorter clutch life trying to feather it. I've used the same flywheel through 2 clutch changes.
If you want, you can change over the the modular clutch design, where it's all one package deal. No aligning, a little less weight. You'd have to get the adapter kit from the dealer, think it runs $40-50 or so. And you still have to get a few extra bolts on top of that ($3 each give or take). Comes with a new dust shield since you'll be attaching the unit from the backside. Uses the same flexplate that's used in the auto trannies. Doing this would allow you to use the clutch from the PT Cruiser (same tranny), which is rated for a bit more torque and oddly usually costs less.
When it's time to put it all back together, you'll need transaxle fluid (unless you saved the stuff that was in there...). Don't tell the dealership you have a Neon, or they'll tell you to put ATF+4 in there. Tell them you have a PT Cruiser (with the NV T-350 tranny) and they'll sell you the right stuff - Mopar Manual Transaxle Lubricant. Be aware that it runs $12-15 per quart, and you'll have to buy 3 of them... The Factory Service Manual for Neons still says in bold letters never to put automatic transaxle lubricant in the gearbox. There have been some folks that have had great success with Redline MTF, and Amsoil now has a gear lube with the correct additive for the synchros. Personally, I've put ATF in there just to get the car home (dealership was closed), and gladly paid the money to put the right stuff in there again. Like comparing butter to gravel when shifting.
Which engine do you have (SOHC or DOHC)? Other options, etc. With proper care, it'll last plenty long. You're coming due on your timing belt replacement. The book says 105,000 miles, but 90-95k is a much safer bet. Replacing the water pump, tensioner and idler pulley are also highly recommended at the same time. Mines coming due again here soon. Last done ~165k miles, coming up on 238k miles right now. Probably get to it in the spring if I don't swap in a project engine by that point.
You own a Neon. You're either going to become a pretty good backyard mechanic, a very poor Neon owner, or get rid of the car... I chose option "A" and couldn't be happier.
Looking forward to the pics. Best of luck!
