what would the vacuum reading need to be?

 

sohc should be about 18-20hg/in at base idle. But there are procedures for running vacuum tests. I don't recall how to do it. But a mechanic should have Mitchell, All data, or something to pull up specs and procedures on how to do this. The vacuum being off one way or the other can show you a lot of things including timing issues and vacuum leaks.

 

changed the spark plugs today, all 4 of them were really bad. Covered in carbon buildup and rust, 2 of them had oil on them, & none of them were gapped anywhere near correctly. I put in NGK BKR6EGP platinum plugs (got 4 for $13), all gapped to .035. A brief test drive shows that the acceleration issue is mostly resolved. Water pump is getting replaced soon. I saved the old plugs & numbered them based on which cylinder they were in, and I can upload pics just in case that could help with a diagnosis.

Havent been able to do a compression test yet, im broke at the moment so I havent bought the tool. I have been told that theres a leak on the passenger side of the engine as well. Its a slow leak, I havent been driving it cuz of the water pump so I cant really tell you more. A friend that came to look at it said that theres a leak in the area of the cam or crank seal (passenger side of engine)... Of course when he was looking it was pitch black outside so he cant be positive. I havent looked myself cuz i am ignorant on this stuff so I couldnt even tell ya what part the leak is on.

also, Ive noticed that my engine has acquired a 'tick' sound that seems new. What does that mean? It ticks a lot while idling & when I went around the block to test out the plugs it seems to tick louder when the gas is pressed as opposed to just coasting whereas I cant hear it (at least while driving).

 

also, I have that gauge cluster issue & im tryin to take it out & look at it. Is there a video that can show me where the cluster is mounted in the dash cuz Ive taken out 4 screws & cant find any more, & it seems to be still firmly attached to the dash...

 

4 screws one in each corner. Then pull on it, the harnesses clip in the back and can be a little tight when you go to tug on it. But if you pull it, it will come.

 

Oil on the plugs means the spark plug tube seals are bad. This can cause missfires. cam seals are common on neons, I have also seen the oil pump seal on the back side of the block leak. Sounds like you need the motor resealed and a new PCV. Tick is normal on neons, but if you just noticed it then it could be low oil pressure, junk oil, or low oil. Possibly coolant in the oil. Or maybe just a worn lifter. Make sure you tightened the plugs, if one is loose that will make it tick.

 

plugs are good & tight, ticking is recent but still prior to changing them anyway. Oil looks normal, but then again ive never seen coolant in oil before. Il have to change the spark plug tube seals then, cant be too hard based on what ive read.

If I were to change the cam seal and spark plug tube seals, are there any seals I can change on the way thru the dismantling to be conveniently replaced? Might as well do what I can while its apart. Also, are there any tips you could give me for the processes? Im gonna look up more info tonight & see what I need to invest in. Thanks for the help so far.

 

Spark plug tube seals are part of a valve cover gasket set.

Cam seal is deep in the motor IMO. You need to pull the timing belt and inner cover to get to it only If your referring to the passenger side. I change the oil pump and water pump along with the timing belt kit and cam seals when ever I take one apart. Oil pump is not "needed", but 1/10 I have seen leak oil from the pump seal on the back side of the block.

Coolant steams in the oil and works its way to the top of the motor, you will see a milky or white residue underneath the oil cap or valve cover.

 

waterpump is replaced & still leakin coolant on tha right side somewhere near the water pump (maybe not from waterpump but cant be sure). Also, after car is shut off, coolant is boiling back into reservoir. Why is this? ive read that a bad radiator cap, or low coolant levels could be a cause. Is there any other potential cause? A few different guys said that my head gasket could be goin but theres no sign of coolant or oil mixed anywhere.

Guy that fixed the water pump said water pump bearings were really bad when he took off the old one, & said that timing was off a tooth. Car seems to run a lot better already, im just a lil concerned about a coolant leak & the boiling coolant thing. Im gonna fix spark plug tube seals & valve cover gasket as soon as the rain stops. Also plannin on gettin an oil change cuz apparently it hasnt been done in 3 years. Cant believe the neglect this car had by its previous owner.

I was recommended to get coolant system flushed as coolant leak may be due to partial blockage(??) of maybe the heater core or somethin?? Guy that said that was one that said if the flush dont work to fix that he's "afraid it might be the engine" (assuming head gasket). The radiator was flushed w/ garden hose prior to water pump bein changed, but block was not flushed. Would it be worth the money for a coolant flush or am I just hopin in vain? Also I was recommended to check thermostat, but my cars gauge doesnt seem to show my engine overheating, its at a steady mid-level...

 

ok so found out the relay for the fan was bad, so i replaced it & fan is now working. Coolant only bubbles a lil bit now, tho fluid was low. If i run the heat on full blast inside it doesnt bubble after shutting car off.

A friend of mine cleaned the carb, which was pretty dirty, & replaced the valve cover gasket & spark plug tube seals for me, & car has a ****load more power now. It doesnt struggle up smaller hills any more but it does have trouble with steeper hills. I put some drygas in the gas tank after half-filling it, & plan on gettin the oil changed soon (that should bring a lil more power to it i think). In the morning I am gonna add some coolant-system stop-leak fluid, not sure what thats gonna do but hopefully it will work. I already added engine stop-leak fluid, & transmission stop-leak fluid (both small leaks, not sure from where).

thoughts or comments?