Fuel tank neck filler?
#1
Fuel tank neck filler?
Just a general question about the fuel tank neck filler, I noticed mine sprung a small leak cause its starting to rust..
My question is this: My old 89 Z24 had a rubber hose form the cap going into the gas tank, could I place a rubber hose instead of the factory metal hose or is it metal for a reason....
Also, do you guys think solid motor mounts can harm my car in any way ?
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Thank you
Danny.
My question is this: My old 89 Z24 had a rubber hose form the cap going into the gas tank, could I place a rubber hose instead of the factory metal hose or is it metal for a reason....
Also, do you guys think solid motor mounts can harm my car in any way ?
--
Thank you
Danny.
#2
RE: Fuel tank neck filler?
Odd, never checked my filler neck, always assumed it was rubber... If you go to a parts store and tell them what you need, they 'll get you the right type of hose. Some types of rubber are not meant for petroleum products. You'd have to guess at the size though, I have no idea...
Solid motor mounts will put a bit more stress where they mount to the frame. It's not significant to be concerned about, particularly if you're not cranking out 350+ HP. In my opinion, it's better all around - fewer missed shifts means longer synchro life on the tranny, less wheel hop means longer wearing tires and less stress on the control arm bushings and the differential...
Best of luck!
Solid motor mounts will put a bit more stress where they mount to the frame. It's not significant to be concerned about, particularly if you're not cranking out 350+ HP. In my opinion, it's better all around - fewer missed shifts means longer synchro life on the tranny, less wheel hop means longer wearing tires and less stress on the control arm bushings and the differential...
Best of luck!
#3
RE: Fuel tank neck filler?
Any Gasoline rated hose that is the right size is fine to use as a substitute for a metal pipe. I have never looked close enough to know what is there from the factory, but anything that is stock replacement or gasoline safe installed the correct way should be fine.
I have solid MM on my 98 neon, I don't recomend them. Not because they are bad and don't work, but because they are excessive and unless you are doing some serious racing they are stupid. I do get better shifts and the car seems faster, which I am sure it is, but 90% of my driving is normal driving and its not worth it.
I have solid MM on my 98 neon, I don't recomend them. Not because they are bad and don't work, but because they are excessive and unless you are doing some serious racing they are stupid. I do get better shifts and the car seems faster, which I am sure it is, but 90% of my driving is normal driving and its not worth it.
#5
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#7
RE: Fuel tank neck filler?
I found the details here===> http://faq.neons.org/faq/FAQ_X.html
Q: How do I decode my '95-'99 Neon's VIN?
A: The VIN or Vehicle Identification Number is a 17 digit code used to identify a particular car from all others. The number is alphanumeric, meaning that it is made up of both letters and numbers. A typical Neon VIN looks like the following:
1P3ES22Y8WDxxxxxx (where xxxxxx is the last six digits)
With this number, one can identify almost all the information about what year the car was made, which engine it should have, and other assorted information. Decoding can be accomplished by following this chart:
First Digit (Country of origin):
1 (US, Belvidere)
3 (Mexico, Toluca)
Second Digit (Make):
D or B (Dodge)
P (Plymouth)
C (Chrysler, built for export)
Third Digit (Vehicle type):
3 (Passenger Car)
Fourth Digit (Passenger Safety):
E (Active Restraints, dual front air-bags)
Fifth Digit (Vehicle Line):
S (Neon/Neon Sport sold in USA/Canada/Export)
6 (Neon/Neon Sport sold in Mexico)
Sixth Digit (Series):
2 (Baseline '95-'97 and Highline '98-'99 US/Canada)
4 (Highline '95-'97 and Sport '98-'99 US/Canada)
6 (Sport '95-'97 US/Canada)
M (Manual SE BUX cars)
A (Automatic BUX cars)
Seventh Digit (Body Style):
2 (Coupe)
7 (Sedan)
Eighth Digit (Engine):
C (2.0L SOHC)
Y (2.0L DOHC)
? (1.8L SOHC) [yes, thatÃ*s really a question mark]
Ninth Digit (Check Digit):
The check digit is used to determine the authenticity of any given serial number. It is derived from a mathematical formula based on the first half of the serial number (all digits to the left of the check digit). If you are interested in how the check digit is determined, email me at <duke@neons.org>. I have the formula but it is too large and obscure to include in the FAQ at this time.
Tenth Digit (Model Year):
S (1995)
T (1996)
V (1997)
W (1998)
X (1999)
Eleventh Digit (Assembly Plant):
D (Belvidere, Illinois - US/Canada/Export)
T (Toluca, Mexico - US/Canada/Mexico)
Twelth-Seventeenth Digits (Build Sequence Number):
Tells what number car it was that came off the assembly line that year.
Using our original example VIN: 1P3ESS22Y8WDxxxxxx, we can determine that this was a 1998 Plymouth Neon Expresso coupe with a DOHC engine for sale in the United States and built at the Belvidere plant. The xxxxxx would have been what number the car was off the assembly line.
Sorry for the long post I thought it was very informative.
--
Danny
Q: How do I decode my '95-'99 Neon's VIN?
A: The VIN or Vehicle Identification Number is a 17 digit code used to identify a particular car from all others. The number is alphanumeric, meaning that it is made up of both letters and numbers. A typical Neon VIN looks like the following:
1P3ES22Y8WDxxxxxx (where xxxxxx is the last six digits)
With this number, one can identify almost all the information about what year the car was made, which engine it should have, and other assorted information. Decoding can be accomplished by following this chart:
First Digit (Country of origin):
1 (US, Belvidere)
3 (Mexico, Toluca)
Second Digit (Make):
D or B (Dodge)
P (Plymouth)
C (Chrysler, built for export)
Third Digit (Vehicle type):
3 (Passenger Car)
Fourth Digit (Passenger Safety):
E (Active Restraints, dual front air-bags)
Fifth Digit (Vehicle Line):
S (Neon/Neon Sport sold in USA/Canada/Export)
6 (Neon/Neon Sport sold in Mexico)
Sixth Digit (Series):
2 (Baseline '95-'97 and Highline '98-'99 US/Canada)
4 (Highline '95-'97 and Sport '98-'99 US/Canada)
6 (Sport '95-'97 US/Canada)
M (Manual SE BUX cars)
A (Automatic BUX cars)
Seventh Digit (Body Style):
2 (Coupe)
7 (Sedan)
Eighth Digit (Engine):
C (2.0L SOHC)
Y (2.0L DOHC)
? (1.8L SOHC) [yes, thatÃ*s really a question mark]
Ninth Digit (Check Digit):
The check digit is used to determine the authenticity of any given serial number. It is derived from a mathematical formula based on the first half of the serial number (all digits to the left of the check digit). If you are interested in how the check digit is determined, email me at <duke@neons.org>. I have the formula but it is too large and obscure to include in the FAQ at this time.
Tenth Digit (Model Year):
S (1995)
T (1996)
V (1997)
W (1998)
X (1999)
Eleventh Digit (Assembly Plant):
D (Belvidere, Illinois - US/Canada/Export)
T (Toluca, Mexico - US/Canada/Mexico)
Twelth-Seventeenth Digits (Build Sequence Number):
Tells what number car it was that came off the assembly line that year.
Using our original example VIN: 1P3ESS22Y8WDxxxxxx, we can determine that this was a 1998 Plymouth Neon Expresso coupe with a DOHC engine for sale in the United States and built at the Belvidere plant. The xxxxxx would have been what number the car was off the assembly line.
Sorry for the long post I thought it was very informative.
--
Danny