rpm's
Push the accelerator pedal down, the rpm's should come up. You'll probably want to make sure the car is running first.
Maybe I'm not understanding your question though. Is your car revving at 3000 rpm and annoying you? Or do you want your car to idle at 3000 rpm? Or somtething completely different?
Maybe I'm not understanding your question though. Is your car revving at 3000 rpm and annoying you? Or do you want your car to idle at 3000 rpm? Or somtething completely different?
And no CEL?
The PCM is programmed to maintain a relatively constant rpm - 800-900 or so. It does this using the Idle Air Control (IAC) valve located on the throttlebody (TB).
So, eithere there's a problem with the IAC, or you have a vacuum leak big enough that the IAC can't compensate for it. Either way, a CEL should have come up by now.
For a vacuum leak, do the obvious and look for disconnected lines or corroded rubber on those lines. There's a line going off to the brake master cylinder, and a line going to the Evap/Purge system, and a hard pipe for the EGR system. You can take a spray bottle of water and start spraying around all the gasket areas - manifold-to-head, manifold halves, TB-to-manifold, fuel injectors, sensors (IAT/MAP).
For the IAC, you remove the TB, get some carb cleaner and q-tips, and clean the heck out of the whole thing. You can remove the IAC from the TB, but the bolts are in there with blue loctite and you seriously risk breaking the bolts off... If the IAC is failing though, you'll have to remove it, obviously.
The PCM is programmed to maintain a relatively constant rpm - 800-900 or so. It does this using the Idle Air Control (IAC) valve located on the throttlebody (TB).
So, eithere there's a problem with the IAC, or you have a vacuum leak big enough that the IAC can't compensate for it. Either way, a CEL should have come up by now.
For a vacuum leak, do the obvious and look for disconnected lines or corroded rubber on those lines. There's a line going off to the brake master cylinder, and a line going to the Evap/Purge system, and a hard pipe for the EGR system. You can take a spray bottle of water and start spraying around all the gasket areas - manifold-to-head, manifold halves, TB-to-manifold, fuel injectors, sensors (IAT/MAP).
For the IAC, you remove the TB, get some carb cleaner and q-tips, and clean the heck out of the whole thing. You can remove the IAC from the TB, but the bolts are in there with blue loctite and you seriously risk breaking the bolts off... If the IAC is failing though, you'll have to remove it, obviously.



