Questions...
Thread Starter
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 3
Likes: 0
Questions...
... Im a girl... I know nothing about repairing cars or anything... I definately don't wanna hire anyone to do this stuff that I want done on my car because I kno they'll charge me an arm and a leg for the work... so... my question is....
1. Why are my gauges not working??????? I've read the FAQ thing where you re-solder the things back on... but that's risky...
2. Why doesn't the first gen of neon not equiped with a low fuel light???? When i'm low on fuel... how would i know i'm low without a flashing light or a beeping sound...? ((for the smart aleks out there, I know if my car stops then it doesn't have gas... hahahhahah... no...)) but seriously I want to know...
3. My car makes this loud *** sound when i crank it up... like skeeeerrrrrrrtttttttttttttttttttttttttttttt..... it's loud as hell... what is it and what do i do for it?
help me please... Email me at lLalDiilDalNii@aim.com... Thanx!
1. Why are my gauges not working??????? I've read the FAQ thing where you re-solder the things back on... but that's risky...
2. Why doesn't the first gen of neon not equiped with a low fuel light???? When i'm low on fuel... how would i know i'm low without a flashing light or a beeping sound...? ((for the smart aleks out there, I know if my car stops then it doesn't have gas... hahahhahah... no...)) but seriously I want to know...
3. My car makes this loud *** sound when i crank it up... like skeeeerrrrrrrtttttttttttttttttttttttttttttt..... it's loud as hell... what is it and what do i do for it?
help me please... Email me at lLalDiilDalNii@aim.com... Thanx!
Legend
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 9,284
Likes: 1
From: mendota, illinois
RE: Questions...
there should be a low fuel light, but maybe it depends on the model...mine comes on jst under a 1/4 tank and my old 95 came on when the needle was just about on e....but if your gauges dont work then that might cause a problem.....if you watch your milage and dont beat the car then you should be sumwhere about 200 miles before you start running low.....
All Star
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 951
Likes: 0
From: Kankakee, IL
RE: Questions...
About the dash you probably have to get it replaced or find a buddy that you trust to do such a thing.
my 2nd gen in base trim does not have a fuel light either missed it considering the one I was renting before buying mine had one.
If your car screaches at start it probably needs a new starter.
my 2nd gen in base trim does not have a fuel light either missed it considering the one I was renting before buying mine had one.
If your car screaches at start it probably needs a new starter.
Record Breaker
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 1,205
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From:
RE: Questions...
If you don't want to play with solder yourself, or don't know/trust anyone else to do it, you could consider buying another instrument cluster off ebay. If yours is a 1st gen (1995-1999), then any of the 1st gen cluster will swap right in. If you have a '95 without a tach, you may or may not be wired for a tach. A cluster without a tach should run you $20-30 shipped. You can swap out odometers, it's just a couple of bolts, so you'll stay legal...
I've never seen a 1st gen that didn't have a low fuel light. There are a bunch of bulbs on the backside of the instrument cluster, it's possible that that particular one burnt out. More likely though, the fuel level sender is notoriously whacked, and the fuel level gauge is hardly trustworthy once that happens. Since the light comes on based on gauge position, it may never actually get to that point. My level indication has been bad for the last 150,000 miles or so. I keep waiting for the fuel pump to go so I'll have a legitimate excuse to go in there and fix it. For now, I just fill up every 200 miles or so, which keeps the tank at least 1/4 full.
The loud sound when you first start is probably one of the accessory belts. There's one belt for the power steering and a/c (outer), and another belt for the alternator (inner). The adjustment for the outer belt is made at the power steering pump, which is on the passenger side, more towards the front of the car. Pretty sure it's one pivot bolt and two tensioning bolts (my p/s is long gone...). You'll have to loosen those up, then apply tension to the belt (pull the pump towards the front of the car), and simultaneously tighten down on all the bolts... There's a square hole on the pump assembly that's meant for a 1/2" breaker bar to assist, but I never found it necessary. The adjustment for the alternator is a little different. There's still a pivot bolt, and there's a tensioning bolt (or is it 2, been a while...), but there's also an adjusting bolt. So you loosen up the pivot and tensioning bolts, turn the adjustment bolt, then tighten everything back up. I've found the easiest way to get to these is with the front end on jackstands (not just a jack), working from underneath. You can get to it from the side as well, just remove the passenger side front wheel and any plastic that might be in the way (fenderwell).
If you haven't already, pick up a Haynes or Chiltons manual, they're pretty good about giving step-by-step stuff with pictures.
Best of luck!
I've never seen a 1st gen that didn't have a low fuel light. There are a bunch of bulbs on the backside of the instrument cluster, it's possible that that particular one burnt out. More likely though, the fuel level sender is notoriously whacked, and the fuel level gauge is hardly trustworthy once that happens. Since the light comes on based on gauge position, it may never actually get to that point. My level indication has been bad for the last 150,000 miles or so. I keep waiting for the fuel pump to go so I'll have a legitimate excuse to go in there and fix it. For now, I just fill up every 200 miles or so, which keeps the tank at least 1/4 full.
The loud sound when you first start is probably one of the accessory belts. There's one belt for the power steering and a/c (outer), and another belt for the alternator (inner). The adjustment for the outer belt is made at the power steering pump, which is on the passenger side, more towards the front of the car. Pretty sure it's one pivot bolt and two tensioning bolts (my p/s is long gone...). You'll have to loosen those up, then apply tension to the belt (pull the pump towards the front of the car), and simultaneously tighten down on all the bolts... There's a square hole on the pump assembly that's meant for a 1/2" breaker bar to assist, but I never found it necessary. The adjustment for the alternator is a little different. There's still a pivot bolt, and there's a tensioning bolt (or is it 2, been a while...), but there's also an adjusting bolt. So you loosen up the pivot and tensioning bolts, turn the adjustment bolt, then tighten everything back up. I've found the easiest way to get to these is with the front end on jackstands (not just a jack), working from underneath. You can get to it from the side as well, just remove the passenger side front wheel and any plastic that might be in the way (fenderwell).
If you haven't already, pick up a Haynes or Chiltons manual, they're pretty good about giving step-by-step stuff with pictures.
Best of luck!
Rookie
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 80
Likes: 0
From:
RE: Questions...
My 97 SOC didnt have a low fuel light either, or a tach. I have sence gotten a used cluster with the tach and it does have the low fuel light in it.
E-bay is good but i found it cheaper to get one a a local pick&pull here $20.00.
as for the sreching sound the flywheel may be worn or the starter not aligned correctly causing the gears to mesh incorrectly.
Good luck
E-bay is good but i found it cheaper to get one a a local pick&pull here $20.00.
as for the sreching sound the flywheel may be worn or the starter not aligned correctly causing the gears to mesh incorrectly.
Good luck
Record Breaker
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 2,062
Likes: 0
From: Kansas City Metro: Shawnee, Kansas
RE: Questions...
ORIGINAL: RadarLove
If you don't want to play with solder yourself, or don't know/trust anyone else to do it, you could consider buying another instrument cluster off ebay. If yours is a 1st gen (1995-1999), then any of the 1st gen cluster will swap right in. If you have a '95 without a tach, you may or may not be wired for a tach. A cluster without a tach should run you $20-30 shipped. You can swap out odometers, it's just a couple of bolts, so you'll stay legal...
I've never seen a 1st gen that didn't have a low fuel light. There are a bunch of bulbs on the backside of the instrument cluster, it's possible that that particular one burnt out. More likely though, the fuel level sender is notoriously whacked, and the fuel level gauge is hardly trustworthy once that happens. Since the light comes on based on gauge position, it may never actually get to that point. My level indication has been bad for the last 150,000 miles or so. I keep waiting for the fuel pump to go so I'll have a legitimate excuse to go in there and fix it. For now, I just fill up every 200 miles or so, which keeps the tank at least 1/4 full.
The loud sound when you first start is probably one of the accessory belts. There's one belt for the power steering and a/c (outer), and another belt for the alternator (inner). The adjustment for the outer belt is made at the power steering pump, which is on the passenger side, more towards the front of the car. Pretty sure it's one pivot bolt and two tensioning bolts (my p/s is long gone...). You'll have to loosen those up, then apply tension to the belt (pull the pump towards the front of the car), and simultaneously tighten down on all the bolts... There's a square hole on the pump assembly that's meant for a 1/2" breaker bar to assist, but I never found it necessary. The adjustment for the alternator is a little different. There's still a pivot bolt, and there's a tensioning bolt (or is it 2, been a while...), but there's also an adjusting bolt. So you loosen up the pivot and tensioning bolts, turn the adjustment bolt, then tighten everything back up. I've found the easiest way to get to these is with the front end on jackstands (not just a jack), working from underneath. You can get to it from the side as well, just remove the passenger side front wheel and any plastic that might be in the way (fenderwell).
If you haven't already, pick up a Haynes or Chiltons manual, they're pretty good about giving step-by-step stuff with pictures.
Best of luck!
If you don't want to play with solder yourself, or don't know/trust anyone else to do it, you could consider buying another instrument cluster off ebay. If yours is a 1st gen (1995-1999), then any of the 1st gen cluster will swap right in. If you have a '95 without a tach, you may or may not be wired for a tach. A cluster without a tach should run you $20-30 shipped. You can swap out odometers, it's just a couple of bolts, so you'll stay legal...
I've never seen a 1st gen that didn't have a low fuel light. There are a bunch of bulbs on the backside of the instrument cluster, it's possible that that particular one burnt out. More likely though, the fuel level sender is notoriously whacked, and the fuel level gauge is hardly trustworthy once that happens. Since the light comes on based on gauge position, it may never actually get to that point. My level indication has been bad for the last 150,000 miles or so. I keep waiting for the fuel pump to go so I'll have a legitimate excuse to go in there and fix it. For now, I just fill up every 200 miles or so, which keeps the tank at least 1/4 full.
The loud sound when you first start is probably one of the accessory belts. There's one belt for the power steering and a/c (outer), and another belt for the alternator (inner). The adjustment for the outer belt is made at the power steering pump, which is on the passenger side, more towards the front of the car. Pretty sure it's one pivot bolt and two tensioning bolts (my p/s is long gone...). You'll have to loosen those up, then apply tension to the belt (pull the pump towards the front of the car), and simultaneously tighten down on all the bolts... There's a square hole on the pump assembly that's meant for a 1/2" breaker bar to assist, but I never found it necessary. The adjustment for the alternator is a little different. There's still a pivot bolt, and there's a tensioning bolt (or is it 2, been a while...), but there's also an adjusting bolt. So you loosen up the pivot and tensioning bolts, turn the adjustment bolt, then tighten everything back up. I've found the easiest way to get to these is with the front end on jackstands (not just a jack), working from underneath. You can get to it from the side as well, just remove the passenger side front wheel and any plastic that might be in the way (fenderwell).
If you haven't already, pick up a Haynes or Chiltons manual, they're pretty good about giving step-by-step stuff with pictures.
Best of luck!
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 40
Likes: 0
From:
RE: Questions...
been a girl has nothing to do with it i have a 97 and it does not have gas light or a tech but it all good and it should be ur outside belt
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Thread Starter
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 3
Likes: 0
RE: Questions...
Thanx guys... It's great to see other people helping out others with the same issues... Oh yeah, I was gonna get a honda, but it was my mom's choice to get a neon... LOL! I guess she made the right choice huh?
Record Breaker
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 2,062
Likes: 0
From: Kansas City Metro: Shawnee, Kansas
RE: Questions...
ORIGINAL: kingof97neon
been a girl has nothing to do with it i have a 97 and it does not have gas light or a tech but it all good and it should be ur outside belt
been a girl has nothing to do with it i have a 97 and it does not have gas light or a tech but it all good and it should be ur outside belt