I have a friend that purchased a '96 SOHC that the previous owner had done 2 major conversions on. The first conversion was to switch from an automatic to a manual. The second was when he replaced the engine, he didn't replace it with one out of another '96 but with one out of a'95. We've replaced the intake manifold on the '95 engine with one off of a '96 so that the sensors could be hooked up correctly. We've also replaced the original computer with one out of a '96 manual car since he had left the auto computer in. ( The original kept kicking in the torque converter trouble code in the computer.) The problem we're having is that you can start the car up and it will run fine for about 20 - 30 minutes and then it will just DIE. It will start back up within 5 - 10 minutes and then after about another 5 mins it will DIE again. The process is continuous unless the car sits idle without running for about an hour and a half or so. I thought that by reading the other post someone had put up about theirs stalling would help but it's not the same problem. The fuse box is secured to the battery casing and the problem exists not only when you are driving the car but also when the car is sitting still in the driveway. Any and all help you guys can give is greatly appreciated.

Rob

 

You need a PCM from a 95 MTX car. Thats your problem

 

We're also going to need the entire wiring harness though, right? The problem I'm worrying about is having to rewire the entire car. Or is it possible to use the '95 computer with the '96 wiring harness somehow? If I could just put the PCM in, that would be beautiful. She'd finally be able to drive her car without worrying about being stranded somewhere out on the road. Once again, thanks for the help in advance.

Rob

 

You DO NOT need a '95 PCM to run a '95 engine. That is most definitely not the problem.

No trouble codes are showing up when the car dies? Are you hooking up a scanner to the OBD port, or just using the key method? Haing a scanner hooked up when the car is running and seeing if a code pops up when it dies could be a big help. My first guess is that the crank signal is being lost somewhere, which will switch off the ASD relay, which will most definitely shut off the car.

Have you checked the fuel rail pressure while running to make sure it's at 49 psi? Does your '96 have the metal gas tank with the big external fuel filter? Has it been changed in the last 30k miles?

Have you taken off the TB and given it (and particularly the IAC motor) a good cleaning? Is it dying with the pedal depressed when driving, or only when letting off the throttle or otherwise at idle?

Condition of the spark plugs? Using copper plugs (not platinum)? Plug wires not ancient or gimmicky (Nology)? had the coilpack checked? used to be that some would evelop a hairline crack inside somewhere, and would only fail when warm. That would be one of the last things I'd check though... new coiplacks are expensive if you don't need one.

 

Thanks RadarLove. Turned out to be the crank sensor. Pigtail wires had fused together and the sensor had disintergrated. Came apart when I took the bolt out. Changed everything over and she's up and running. Probably the happiest girl in the world now. She told me to tell you and casper thank you. After all this time, she can fiannly drive her car.(Purchased it in Feb.) Hadn't driven more than 20 miles since then until now. Once again, thanks.


Rob

 

I know this is a really old thread, but i have the same issue! I am hoping i can get some kind of response from someoneI was just wondering if the woman also had all her warning lights come on at once everytime the car stalled? That's what's happening to me... i would like to save money by NOT having to run diagnostics the electrical and computer. Thanks in advance to anyone who replies