Hey....thanks for all the help! Budget....well I'm not apposed to pulling the motor, milling the head down, putting a cam in, ext.... Nope, can't run turbo, and I figured I can maybe turn the idle up to drown out the lope???

 

MOST are plastic. There were a handful of aluminum ones made.

I would definitely pick a first gen Neon. If you can only find a '96+ you could always swap in a '95 cam, as it won't be lopey enough to be noticed as a non stock cam.
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a 95 cam is still a "stock" cam, it came in a neon, it can be used, its a factory chrystler part
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I don't want to start an argument with you, but the 1995 SOHC cam is currently also a Mopar Performance Parts part. I don't know what the dirt track rules are. Obviously you could make a case that you are using a stock part.

 

I would ask first...because if they consider it a stock part then I would get a 01 magnum cam . Hey it's still stock!!!

 

Its all about who can cheat the most and not get caught... Go with a bigger bottom end... I would say if you were running the DOHC you could go with the 2.4 bottom end and get away with it... but thats not the case. You could always slide some forged pistons in and some stanless valves, If that fits your budget! Any who good luck

 

I HAVE A 2.4 BLOCK THAT IM PLANNING ON INSTALLING THIS WINTER. BUT I WOULD LIKE TO TALK TO SOMEONE WHO HAS DONE THIS, SO IF YOU HAVE, PLEASE CONTACT ME!

I RACE A NEON ON A 1/2 MILE DIRT TRACK IN NEBRASKA. I WOULD NOT COUNT ON YOUR MOTOR BEING "TECHED" TOO MUCH. ABOUT ALL THEY CHECK WHERE I RACE IS THE TIRE PRESSURE, SUSP, AIR INTAKE SYSTEM. THERE ARE TONS OF HONDAS & ACURAS THAT HAVE HAD EXTENSIVE MODS DONE TO THEM, THEY PASS TECH EVERYTIME. I WOULD SAY ANYTHING INTERNAL WOULD BE FINE, THEY ARE NOT GOING TO TEAR DOWN A 4 CYL, ATLEAST FOR NOW.

WEIGHT IS A BIG FACTOR. I TOOK MY DASH COMPLETELY OUT, REMVOVED EVERYTHING I DIDNT NEED, INCLUDEING THE HEATERBOX. CUT OUT PACKAGE TRAY & TAILLIGHT POCKETS. A FRIEND OF MINE CUT OUT HIS HOOD & DECKLID STRUCTURE, BUT IM NOT SOLD ON THAT YET, ALTHOUGH THE HOOD STRUCTURE IS ABOUT 6 POUNDS.

GET A CAM KIT & LEAN RT FT IN & LT FT OUT, & A NEW RT FT SPRING & SHOCK.

AND USE 195/60/14, WITH ALOT OF OPEN TREAD, IF POSSIBLE. THE FT TIRES WILL BUILD UP AIR PRESSURE, BUT THE BACK TIRES WILL STAY AT 32lbs. AFTER 12 LAPS, THE FT TIRES BUILD UP 2-4lbs. DONT GO TOO LOW THOUGH, ALOT OF GUYS IN THE BEGINING OF THE SEASON, ROLLED TIRES OFF THE RIMS.

GOOD LUCK RACEING!

 

]CLICK ME[/b] for the best 2.4 swap how-to that I have come across.

 

Do you run any stagger? What gear do you run and how many RPMs? Thanks!!!

 

i know its a performance part now, but it did come originally in a 95 neon, so that makes it a factory issued part, as far as rules go where i race we can get away with that kind of stuff,if it came stock on any neon its a stock part, what if you had a 95 engine?? thats what it would have m how do they know its not a 95? the tech guys have so many cars to check and keep track of they just make sure your not cheating bigtime & dont pay attention to details of what years had what - the problem with those is when they check your vaccum neons always end up under the 18 inch Lbs most rules call for cuz they already have such a long duration on the cam, ive already been through that mess with the tech guy and mines a stock 96 DOHC motor

i run a 3/8 mile dirt track, DOHC, 5 speed, i run 3rd gear with 195/45/14 tires and im gettin in the range of 6800 - 7000 at the end of the straight, calculate it all with gear ratios & tire size thats a fuzz over 75 MPH were runnin
if your car pushes bad try 1" bigger tire on the left front to help pull it around the corner, use a big hard compund almost bald on the right rear, and a small tire on the left rear, if the back grabs ahold suddenly to where the front end washes out bad use less stagger in the rear to loosen up the back, right now i have a 77" on the RR and a 65" on the LR - no stagger in the front & i gotta put it in hard as hell but its fast - all tracks have a different surface but try something in that range to start with, late models teeter on the right front & left rear, FWD needs to be opposite, keep the weight up on the left front ,the big RR tire helps do that - and i honestly had really good luck using a completely wasted strut on the LR and one that was somewhat worn out - kinda bouncy on the RR,
last weekend i was the fastest qualifier by 2 tenths then i got black flagged in the feature for takin someone out - the officials didnt see the other car shove me down the track, lol, oh well

[IMG]local://upfiles/37714/5A17048C31B74EB696B3827D2320D973.jpg[/IMG]

 

Gutted - you dont have to worry about starting an arguement with me, i actually have a sense of humor unlike most people who talk **** over the internet,
there is awlays the option of having the base circle of the stock cam ground down to make it a higher lift, and it still has the factory chrystler symbol on it [8D]

[IMG]local://upfiles/37714/9E3D1BD8F02D47CE92FE010647AE28F4.jpg[/IMG]


and also remeber, my car is 100% stock and legal and i was still the fastest qualifier over all the cheaters,

 

Wow...reverse stagger. I would've set this thing up bass-***-aqwards!! Thanks again for the help!