95 neon electrical short/garage ripoff
Hi folks,
I've got a 95 neon, which has run great since I've had it (about 3 months).
A few days ago, it developed a weird fault. While driving, all the gauges dropped to zero for a second, then came back up. It did it a few times. The other symptoms are that sometimes, even with the ignition key OUT, the oil light is on and the rev counter is at 2000 rpm (very weird, let me assure you!)
Because we were planning a long trip, I drove it to a garage and asked them to fix it. Their diagnosis was a leaking radiator/faulty thermostat combo which was causing it to cut out. I paid $500 for a new radiator, new thermostat coolant flush and coolant. Q1 - is this a fair price?
Anyway, that didn't work. So they took it right back in and diagnosed a faulty crank sensor. They called in an auto electrician who apparently fixed a short in the wiring harness (which sounded like a far more reasonable diagnosis). They said they were also going to replace the computer, and battery clamps. They charged me $300 for this, and didn't replace anything. Q2 - is this a fair price, and should I even have been charged for it? Am I correct in thinking that claiming to have replaced parts and doing nothing is illegal?
That didn't work either. And now it wont even crank. So now they're sending round a tow-truck to pick it up. I'm sure they've already ripped me off and are going to try and get even more money out of me.
Q3 - does anyone have any advice on how to deal with them if they ask for more money?
Q4 - does anyone have any suggestions/experience which might help me find the fault?
Thanks in advance, everyone!
Adam.
I've got a 95 neon, which has run great since I've had it (about 3 months).
A few days ago, it developed a weird fault. While driving, all the gauges dropped to zero for a second, then came back up. It did it a few times. The other symptoms are that sometimes, even with the ignition key OUT, the oil light is on and the rev counter is at 2000 rpm (very weird, let me assure you!)
Because we were planning a long trip, I drove it to a garage and asked them to fix it. Their diagnosis was a leaking radiator/faulty thermostat combo which was causing it to cut out. I paid $500 for a new radiator, new thermostat coolant flush and coolant. Q1 - is this a fair price?
Anyway, that didn't work. So they took it right back in and diagnosed a faulty crank sensor. They called in an auto electrician who apparently fixed a short in the wiring harness (which sounded like a far more reasonable diagnosis). They said they were also going to replace the computer, and battery clamps. They charged me $300 for this, and didn't replace anything. Q2 - is this a fair price, and should I even have been charged for it? Am I correct in thinking that claiming to have replaced parts and doing nothing is illegal?
That didn't work either. And now it wont even crank. So now they're sending round a tow-truck to pick it up. I'm sure they've already ripped me off and are going to try and get even more money out of me.
Q3 - does anyone have any advice on how to deal with them if they ask for more money?
Q4 - does anyone have any suggestions/experience which might help me find the fault?
Thanks in advance, everyone!
Adam.
Because we were planning a long trip, I drove it to a garage and asked them to fix it. Their diagnosis was a leaking radiator/faulty thermostat combo which was causing it to cut out. I paid $500 for a new radiator, new thermostat coolant flush and coolant. Q1 - is this a fair price?
Anyway, that didn't work. So they took it right back in and diagnosed a faulty crank sensor. They called in an auto electrician who apparently fixed a short in the wiring harness (which sounded like a far more reasonable diagnosis). They said they were also going to replace the computer, and battery clamps. They charged me $300 for this, and didn't replace anything. Q2 - is this a fair price, and should I even have been charged for it? Am I correct in thinking that claiming to have replaced parts and doing nothing is illegal?
Q3 - does anyone have any advice on how to deal with them if they ask for more money?
Q4 - does anyone have any suggestions/experience which might help me find the fault?
Q4 - does anyone have any suggestions/experience which might help me find the fault?
The thing with neons... They are very simple beasts... Many times you are looking *WAY* too far into something that is so so simple... Might I suggest you search around the forum about gauge cluster repairs.. Sounds like you have a couple shorts in your cluster.. a very common problem in Neons...
Thanks for the tips.
I looked into it myself and it looks like a faulty ignition switch. Would that sound about right? I don't think it's the gauge cluster because the radio dies too. Not tried it at night, but I'd guess the lights do too, so I'm down to AutoZone before it gets dark!!
The reason I think it's the ignition switch is that sometimes the needles will go part way up (like it's reading 15mph, 2500rpm) and if you ram the key in hard they go back to normal and then you can start the car!
Their tow-truck never showed up, so I'm writing a letter to the company HQ (it's a franchise).
Will let you know how I get on.
I looked into it myself and it looks like a faulty ignition switch. Would that sound about right? I don't think it's the gauge cluster because the radio dies too. Not tried it at night, but I'd guess the lights do too, so I'm down to AutoZone before it gets dark!!
The reason I think it's the ignition switch is that sometimes the needles will go part way up (like it's reading 15mph, 2500rpm) and if you ram the key in hard they go back to normal and then you can start the car!
Their tow-truck never showed up, so I'm writing a letter to the company HQ (it's a franchise).
Will let you know how I get on.
I dont ever let other mechanics touch my car unless I dont have the proper equipment to do the job myself... but i hear of people getting ripped like this all the time. Namely my mother and my sister because they are girls. They take their cars into the shop to see what that funny noise is or whatever, and the people there are almost always half assing the diagnosis, saying replace this replace that... and it makes me pretty pissed. I wish murder was legal for dirty mechanics (figuratively dirty, not literally). A lot of franchise people dont know what they are talking about too, this isnt all of them, but ive been to some where the people basically took an autoshop class in highschool and got a job there.
a couple of days ago i was on the highway and all my gauges cut out for like 2 seconds and then went right back up... and it souded all the warnings and such... really annoying at 73mph and looking at the road lol
ok here is the problem with the gauge cluster. Neons have a bad gauge cluster problem and the way to fix it is take the whole cluster out of the car and resolder the joints on the back of the cluster. the back of the cluster has 2 connectors on either side and they wear out over time and will cause the problem that you have and 99% of the time if you just take it out and resolder the joints then you are good to go. Now for your other problem with the oil light staying on while the car is off might be a sensor malfunction. You can run a code on your car to find out what the PCM has picked up and take care of everything yourself. Turn the ignition on and off 2 times and the 3rd time you turn it on leave it on (not starting the car) and watch the check engine light it will start flashing codes at you and you have to count the times that it flashes and write those down. The 1st initial number should flash 1 time pause then flash 2 times for the number 12 which will start your code and then it will start flashing the codes that the PCM has picked up. After it flashes all the problem codes the series will end in the number 55 which will be 5 flashes and a short pause and then 5 more flashes to finish off the code and then you are done. Now if you have a Haynes manual for your car you can turn to chapter 6 and find the code numbers and see what the problem is. You can grab the manual at any auto part store like Autozone or Advance auto parts. Let me know what you find out.
Eric
Eric
ORIGINAL: neonman1979
ok here is the problem with the gauge cluster. Neons have a bad gauge cluster problem and the way to fix it is take the whole cluster out of the car and resolder the joints on the back of the cluster. the back of the cluster has 2 connectors on either side and they wear out over time and will cause the problem that you have and 99% of the time if you just take it out and resolder the joints then you are good to go. Now for your other problem with the oil light staying on while the car is off might be a sensor malfunction. You can run a code on your car to find out what the PCM has picked up and take care of everything yourself. Turn the ignition on and off 2 times and the 3rd time you turn it on leave it on (not starting the car) and watch the check engine light it will start flashing codes at you and you have to count the times that it flashes and write those down. The 1st initial number should flash 1 time pause then flash 2 times for the number 12 which will start your code and then it will start flashing the codes that the PCM has picked up. After it flashes all the problem codes the series will end in the number 55 which will be 5 flashes and a short pause and then 5 more flashes to finish off the code and then you are done. Now if you have a Haynes manual for your car you can turn to chapter 6 and find the code numbers and see what the problem is. You can grab the manual at any auto part store like Autozone or Advance auto parts. Let me know what you find out.
Eric
ok here is the problem with the gauge cluster. Neons have a bad gauge cluster problem and the way to fix it is take the whole cluster out of the car and resolder the joints on the back of the cluster. the back of the cluster has 2 connectors on either side and they wear out over time and will cause the problem that you have and 99% of the time if you just take it out and resolder the joints then you are good to go. Now for your other problem with the oil light staying on while the car is off might be a sensor malfunction. You can run a code on your car to find out what the PCM has picked up and take care of everything yourself. Turn the ignition on and off 2 times and the 3rd time you turn it on leave it on (not starting the car) and watch the check engine light it will start flashing codes at you and you have to count the times that it flashes and write those down. The 1st initial number should flash 1 time pause then flash 2 times for the number 12 which will start your code and then it will start flashing the codes that the PCM has picked up. After it flashes all the problem codes the series will end in the number 55 which will be 5 flashes and a short pause and then 5 more flashes to finish off the code and then you are done. Now if you have a Haynes manual for your car you can turn to chapter 6 and find the code numbers and see what the problem is. You can grab the manual at any auto part store like Autozone or Advance auto parts. Let me know what you find out.
Eric
Very common problem. Very easy fix. Lift up the top dash cover, you won't break anything. The whole dash panel from left to right has metal pins holding it in place. Lift and pull it towards yourself.
Now you're ready to take out the instrument panel and go to work on it. All you have to do take off all the screws to access the circuit board.
I did a visual check and found that 4 pins on either side were cracked and bent them down with a flat object. Now my speedometer works perfectly.
I just bought the car 6 days ago and know nothing about it yet but I've learned soo much from this site already. Turbo sounds soo good right now!!!


