damn, that must be a hell of a highschool education, my highschool never tought pricipals of electricity, i had to take a college course to learn that stuff...
a 850CCA battery isnt going to normally crank out 850 amps with a stereo going, ut will only do so when starting the car, but not when running, no matter how many amps are hooked up to the battery, CCA means exactly what it stands for....

one last thing.....do you ALWAYS listen to the stereo as loud as it can go to where at no time the battery will get charged except when changing songs????? when your driving in the middle of the nite??? talking on the fone or to another person in the car????driving by cops???? when you have a headach???
no wonder the alt. would go out quickly

man you must be completely def by now....or really ignorant....im kinda leaning towads the second one

i atleast turn it down at stop lights and at nite, but then again i guess the stereo is still gonna pull max power when down real low or with the subs off isnt it???

besides i never said it was good and that i was right about the stock alternator and battery being good for any aftermarket stereo, i simply said that you dont exactly need a high output alt for the stereo your gonna have...

besides i am going to assume that you dont know the main rules of thumb about stereos......peak doesnt really mean anything, because you speakers will distort way before you ever hit the peak output on any amp...and that almost all stereo companies over rate the power of their amps because the customers think its better if it has more power.....
infact sony for example, a 1000 watt 2 channel sony amp normally has a true rms power rating of about 75-150 watts per channel

my 2400 watt rms audiobahn amp had a peak rating of just about 5000 watts, but that doesnt matter, it realistically only had a power rating of about 500 watts per channel.....peak, true rms power was about 175 watts per channel....in order to hit anywhere near 2400 watts i would have to run the amp at 1 ohm with speakers that had virtually no distortion and could handle about 7000 watts
i though, was running it with 4 DVC 4 ohm subs.....the the amp was running stable at about 0.33ohms, and had no problem

a 550 watt 2 channel amp actually has a true rms rating of about 75 watts per channel under the right ohm load....but by far wont be anywhere near half of the full power rating on the amp

so realistically speaking, your 1375 watts rms is "realistically" about 700 watts(being gererous of course) and you need to make sure that you are able to push a constant power of 14.4 volts to the amps at all times.....get a stand alone voltage regulator

what brand of amps are they(please dont say pioneer) and what size and how many fuses do the amps have??? thats how you tell the true power of the amps, the more and larger fuses the amps have, the more true power the amps is able to put out, my audiobahn had 4-40 amp fuses and my orions each had 2-20 amp fuses...so the orions wouldnt be reliable to constantly push high regulated subs, they are more for interior speakers or low power subs....

go out and get a 1000 watt JL audio amp, or a 1 watt Orion HCCA amp or just a good name with more and larger fuses, then worry about a high output alt. and its not a typo, i did say a 1 watt amp....its about 3-4 feet long, 4 inches thick, and 1 foot wide)

 

lawl ok mang.

So where can I find a bosch 200A?

EDIT: And its just a typical high school, maybe they teach better in canada

 

And 35A for the 550w amp (fronts). And the same for the rear (same amp)
and 20x2 for the 500w sub amp

Doesnt really matter, the 500w one had a print out of its actual wattage and it was over 540rms tested at 2ohms

 

Well you wont have problems pushing that as long as the car is running. All you will get is a system performing at what the car is able to push to the amp system. You wont get top performance out of your equipment with a stock alt. and eventually the stock one will fry from being maxed out all the time.. You will just get a system not operating at MAX.. this is why there is an RMS rating on the amps and subs. There may be a few notes in each song that you run MAX.. Your not going to run that all the time.. and if you have caps hooked up, you should be fine... I've seen a 2000watt amp running on 2 ohms pushing 2 12 inch subs with a 1.5 Farad cap and the car had no problems with alternators or batteries... And also, FyreDaug.. this is not a forum for amps, stereos and stuff like that.. so if you are looking for "expert" advice, why dont you go elsewhere and take your rude, smart *** remarks with you...

 

if you wanna know what kind of amperage your stereo is gonne be pulling then take the fuses on the amps, add them up, then cut them in half, 110 amps divided by 2 equals 55......so "realistically" you stereo is only gonna be pulling about 55 amps of power from your alternator....at thats when the stereo is cranked up.....the higher amp fuses are in there bacause that is the highest amperage the amplifiers can pull before the resistors, mosfets, and capacitors inside the amp hit their max temperature rating.....

and again it doesnt matter if the amp had any printout of "actual" wattage....if you wanna know what the am realistically put out, take it to a good stereo shop and have them bench test it.....i gaurantee you it wont reach anything near 540 watts, especially rms

the audiobahn amp i had in my car had 4-40 amp fuses, the 2 orions each had 2-20 amp fuses....thats 240 amps running off the stock alternator and an optima battery....but again realistically there was only about 120 amps

i guess canadian high schools are better....since they seem to be teaching 2 year college classes there......here is what you do, go on the internet and try to find a book called Electricity: Principles and Applications. sixth edition written by a guy named Richard J. fowler.....everything i have been explaining can be found and broken down more for you in this book.....and it doesnt matter how good your math is, you need to know how it all works first

im not an expert, but there are 2 things you can try to out-doo me on.....1 is neons and 2 is car stereos......try again

 

Rude smart *** remarks? I just came here for help with my damn domestic and im getting wrong information from spudterier who seems to know everything about stereos. I didnt ask for information on his stereo club and his 6 domestic vehicles in there. All I simply asked was where to find a high output alternator. I can tell you to add another 150w to that aswell, because the opus power supply im running is 150, and my 12V line gets close to maxxing out JUST on the processor alone. I wasnt looking FOR ANY advice about stereos. I asked about an alternator.

Im not even going to read his response, im just gonna say that this thread is where to find a high output alternator. I didnt come here to argue about stereos or whos spent more money on what because I dont give a ****. This is what I have, and my budget allows for a higher output alternator. I fried up my 65A alternator on my accord and I didnt even have the computer in there. It was just a JVC deck powering this. 65A, blew two of them from the system im sure of it.

So why dont we all stick to the topic instead of adding to the fire? Man I thought this was a community for information, and im looking for information on a high output alternator. If you can help thanks you

 

And in all fairness im not an angry flame-war kinda person. If it continues ill simply just block him, which Id prefer not to do

PLEASE lets not discuss stereos after this point, if you dont have anything important to the ORIGINAL POST about alternators please dont respond. Ill look around for the bosch anyways

 

THESE are the only 140a ones I could find.

 

THANK YOU. Damn thats pretty decently priced too. Im so bookmarking that