Hello all, - new to the board. I have a 1996 Neon, SOHC that won't start. I've replaced the fuel pump assembly in the fuel tank (it was bad) and now have fuel at the injector rail, under pressure. After I replaced the fuel pump, I got it started after some cranking and it ran fine. It sat for a few days and now it won't even try to start. It cranks kind of slow even with a new battery, but not that slow. This seems to be cold weather related as I can get it started if the temps are in the 60's, but not below. It's been in the 30's during the day here. I ran the "Failure to start test" in the Chilton's manual. Primary and secondaries in the coil are within specs. Using a 12V test light, there is one flash after 'key on' at the center pin of the coil connector harness. Several flashes at the same connector whan cranking - here is where I'm confused. The manual states that if there IS flashes while cranking that either the cam position sensor or the crank position sensor is bad. Is this correct? Seems to me that there would be NO flashes if one or both were bad?? Anyhow, I'd appreciate any insight into what may be wrong.

Thanks - Dan

 

You should get 12v on the green/orange wire at the coil connector when the ignition switch is on however, if the pcm senses no cranking condition it will shut it down. When cranking you should have 12v on the green/orange wire. That lead is powered by the auto shutdown relay so that may be something to check. It is my understanding that the engine will still run (not well) with a bad camshaft sensor but not if the crankshaft sensor is bad. Is the check engine light on? If so read the codes. I would try swapping the auto shutdown relay first as its easy to do, there are several other relays that are the same.

 

I have 12V at the green/orange (center of three wires) while cranking. I swaped the auto shutdown relay with the horn (they're all the same) and it's ok. While I was doing all of this, I had the an electric heater nearby blowing partly on the engine. I hit the key and it started We'll see tomorrow after it sits all night in the 20 degree temps if it starts acting up again. It's really looking like a temperature problem, although I can't imagine what it would be.

Thanks - Dan

 

It is possible that the relay was the problem as the contacts can get pitted and dirty so they are intermittent and just moving them around can clear the problem for a while.
If it turns out that it’s not an electrical problem, check the EGR valve if they get stuck open they can cause a similar hard start condition that may come and go. I had this happen on my 1995 Neon the EGR would get stuck open from time to time

Good luck.