battery light ON
#11
#12
RE: battery light ON
ORIGINAL: das2123
You would need to replace the whole unit. It is serviced only as a complete assembly. If the generator
fails for any reason, the entire assembly must be replaced.
You would need to replace the whole unit. It is serviced only as a complete assembly. If the generator
fails for any reason, the entire assembly must be replaced.
One other thing, check for continuity on the BLK/GRY wire and it's fusible link, that carries the alternator output to the pos. battery cable on the starter.
#13
#14
RE: battery light ON
where is this fuse? i looked at the wire going from starter to + battery terminal but didnt see any fuseable links.
ORIGINAL: neisg1
One other thing, check for continuity on the BLK/GRY wire and it's fusible link, that carries the alternator output to the pos. battery cable on the starter.
One other thing, check for continuity on the BLK/GRY wire and it's fusible link, that carries the alternator output to the pos. battery cable on the starter.
#15
RE: battery light ON
The wire I'm talking about runs from the starter where the + battery cable connects on the starter to the Alternator + output, it has a fusible link spliced in at the starter end.
If you measure battery voltage on the main charge wire at the Alternator, everything can be off for this test, then it’s OK. If you don’t measure battery voltage at the alternator then the BLK/GRY or the fusible link is open.
If you measure battery voltage on the main charge wire at the Alternator, everything can be off for this test, then it’s OK. If you don’t measure battery voltage at the alternator then the BLK/GRY or the fusible link is open.
ORIGINAL: starik
where is this fuse? i looked at the wire going from starter to + battery terminal but didnt see any fuseable links.
where is this fuse? i looked at the wire going from starter to + battery terminal but didnt see any fuseable links.
ORIGINAL: neisg1
One other thing, check for continuity on the BLK/GRY wire and it's fusible link, that carries the alternator output to the pos. battery cable on the starter.
One other thing, check for continuity on the BLK/GRY wire and it's fusible link, that carries the alternator output to the pos. battery cable on the starter.
#16
#17
RE: battery light ON
ok i did my best, given that there's hardly any room there (even with intake out). it looks like the link is blown (high resistance).
however i also checked the battery and it shows 12.5V. There is door ajar chime sound and when i turn iginition key it attempts to crank but stops. Does it mean the battery cannot provide the load or whatever you call it, peak power?
to summarize:
car starts via jumper cables
battery shows 12.5V
door chimes / guages seem to move lazily like there ISNT enough battery power
with engine OFF, no continuity between alternator + post and battery + terminal
checked all fuses (by the battery)
neisg1, where is the fusible link located in the wire, ie by what part.? its still too cold outside for me to trace it lying under the car
thanks
however i also checked the battery and it shows 12.5V. There is door ajar chime sound and when i turn iginition key it attempts to crank but stops. Does it mean the battery cannot provide the load or whatever you call it, peak power?
to summarize:
car starts via jumper cables
battery shows 12.5V
door chimes / guages seem to move lazily like there ISNT enough battery power
with engine OFF, no continuity between alternator + post and battery + terminal
checked all fuses (by the battery)
neisg1, where is the fusible link located in the wire, ie by what part.? its still too cold outside for me to trace it lying under the car
thanks
#18
RE: battery light ON
First you need to charge the battery a fully charged battery should measure 13.2-13.5 volts.
According to the wiring diagram the fusible link is at the starter end of the wire. It goes into the wiring loom that goes up past the intake manifold. You may have to open the wiring loom to check it.
According to the wiring diagram the fusible link is at the starter end of the wire. It goes into the wiring loom that goes up past the intake manifold. You may have to open the wiring loom to check it.
#19
RE: battery light ON
Fisrt off, your car WILL NOT run with a bad altenator. Not for long anyway. If the altenator is bad, it will run on battery power until the battery runs down.
If the battery is reading 12.5 on a volt meter in a static condition (just sitting) this is a surface charge. Perform a load test on the battery. If you don't know how to do this, take the battery to Autozone and they will do it for you free of charge. If your battery load test is good, charge the battery fully. Slow and steady charge is best. Trickle charge overnight.
A quick good ole boy way to check the altenator is to start the car. With it running at idle, take the positive terminal off the battery. If the car continues to run, the altenator is good. If it dies, bad altenator.
If all this checks out good, while you have the positive terminal disconnected from the battery check voltage in the positive terminal with a multimeter (voltmeter). Touch the positive leadof the meter to the positive terminal (make sure the terminal does not touch anything grounded.) and the negative leadof the meter to a grounding point on the car. The meter should red 12.8v to 13.2v. Anything less or more can indicate a bad regulator. Autozone can also check your altenator, but you will have to remove it from the car.Neisg1 is correct, the regulator on a Neon is in the PCM.He is also correct about the fusible link. The fusible link don't look like a fuse, but more like a wire.
If the battery is reading 12.5 on a volt meter in a static condition (just sitting) this is a surface charge. Perform a load test on the battery. If you don't know how to do this, take the battery to Autozone and they will do it for you free of charge. If your battery load test is good, charge the battery fully. Slow and steady charge is best. Trickle charge overnight.
A quick good ole boy way to check the altenator is to start the car. With it running at idle, take the positive terminal off the battery. If the car continues to run, the altenator is good. If it dies, bad altenator.
If all this checks out good, while you have the positive terminal disconnected from the battery check voltage in the positive terminal with a multimeter (voltmeter). Touch the positive leadof the meter to the positive terminal (make sure the terminal does not touch anything grounded.) and the negative leadof the meter to a grounding point on the car. The meter should red 12.8v to 13.2v. Anything less or more can indicate a bad regulator. Autozone can also check your altenator, but you will have to remove it from the car.Neisg1 is correct, the regulator on a Neon is in the PCM.He is also correct about the fusible link. The fusible link don't look like a fuse, but more like a wire.
#20
RE: battery light ON
ORIGINAL: 5.0LTREATER
A quick good ole boy way to check the altenator is to start the car. With it running at idle, take the positive terminal off the battery. If the car continues to run, the altenator is good. If it dies, bad altenator.
A quick good ole boy way to check the altenator is to start the car. With it running at idle, take the positive terminal off the battery. If the car continues to run, the altenator is good. If it dies, bad altenator.
ORIGINAL: 5.0LTREATER
If all this checks out good, while you have the positive terminal disconnected from the battery check voltage in the positive terminal with a multimeter (voltmeter). Touch the positive lead of the meter to the positive terminal (make sure the terminal does not touch anything grounded.) and the negative lead of the meter to a grounding point on the car. The meter should red 12.8v to 13.2v . Anything less or more can indicate a bad regulator.
If all this checks out good, while you have the positive terminal disconnected from the battery check voltage in the positive terminal with a multimeter (voltmeter). Touch the positive lead of the meter to the positive terminal (make sure the terminal does not touch anything grounded.) and the negative lead of the meter to a grounding point on the car. The meter should red 12.8v to 13.2v . Anything less or more can indicate a bad regulator.
If 2 days ago I still had enough power to crank the car, now the starter doesnt event move. With boost off another car, engine starts. I took it for a spin this evening. Battery light still on. Sounds like the battery is going down. Unfortunately, there is no Autozone here in canada.
I have an old battery lying around. I bought it prolly 5 years ago, and it has been sitting in storage for the past 4. Is there some sense to try to hook it up and drive around for 30 mins to charge it up? Or is it garbage at this point?